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1Origins and history

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1.1Peru

1.2Polynesia

1.3West Africa

1.4California

2Types

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2.1Tandem surfing

3Surf waves

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3.1Tube shape and speed

3.2Wave intensity

3.3Artificial reefs

3.4Artificial waves

4Maneuvers

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4.1Terms

5Learning

6Equipment

7The physics of surfing

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7.1Wave formation

7.2Wave conditions for surfing

7.3Surf breaks

7.3.1Headland (point break)

7.3.2Beach break

7.3.3River or estuary entrance bar

7.3.4Reef break

7.3.5Ledge break

7.4Jetties and their impacts on wave formation in the surf zone

7.4.1Type 1 jetty

7.4.2Type 2 jetty

7.4.3Type 3 jetty

7.4.4Type 4 jetty

7.5Rip currents

7.6On the surfboard

8Dangers

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8.1Drowning

8.2Collisions

8.3Marine life

8.4Rip currents

8.5Seabed

8.6Microorganisms

8.7Ear damage

8.8Surf rash

8.9Spinal cord

9Surfers and surf culture

10See also

11References

12Further reading

13External links

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Surfing

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Sport of riding waves

This article is about stand-up ocean surfing. For other uses, see Surfing (disambiguation).

"Surfer" redirects here. For other uses, see Surfer (disambiguation).

"Surfers" redirects here. For the suburb of the Gold Coast, see Surfers Paradise, Queensland.

SurfingMavericks Surf Contest 2010Highest governing bodyWorld Surf League (WSL), International Surfing Association (ISA)CharacteristicsMixed-sexYes, separate competitionsEquipmentSurfboard, leash, wetsuitPresenceCountry or regionWorldwideOlympicSince 2020

Surfing is a surface water sport in which an individual, a surfer (or two in tandem surfing), uses a board to ride on the forward section, or face, of a moving wave of water, which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found on ocean shores, but can also be found in standing waves in the open ocean, in lakes, in rivers in the form of a tidal bore, or in wave pools.

The term surfing refers to a person riding a wave using a board, regardless of the stance. There are several types of boards. The Moche of Peru would often surf on reed craft, while the native peoples of the Pacific surfed waves on alaia, paipo, and other such water craft. Ancient cultures often surfed on their belly and knees, while the modern-day definition of surfing most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing on a surfboard; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing.

Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding, where a surfer rides the wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee (one foot and one knee on the board), or sometimes even standing up on a body board. Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats) and using foils. Body surfing, in which the wave is caught and ridden using the surfer's own body rather than a board, is very common and is considered by some surfers to be the purest form of surfing. The closest form of body surfing using a board is a handboard which normally has one strap over it to fit on one hand. Surfers who body board, body surf, or handboard feel more drag as they move through the water than stand up surfers do. This holds body surfers into a more turbulent part of the wave (often completely submerged by whitewater). In contrast, surfers who instead ride a hydrofoil feel substantially less drag and may ride unbroken waves in the open ocean.

Three major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are stand-up paddling, long boarding and short boarding with several major differences including the board design and length, the riding style and the kind of wave that is ridden.

In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing), a motorized water vehicle such as a personal watercraft, tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large wave's speed, which is generally a higher speed than a self-propelled surfer can produce. Surfing-related sports such as paddle boarding and sea kayaking that are self-propelled by hand paddles do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kite surfing and windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these platforms may also be used to ride waves. Recently with the use of V-drive boats,[clarification needed] Wakesurfing, in which one surfs on the wake of a boat, has emerged.[citation needed] As of 2023, the Guinness Book of World Records recognized a 26.2 m (86 ft) wave ride by Sebastian Steudtner at Nazaré, Portugal as the largest wave ever surfed.[1]

During the winter season in the northern hemisphere, the North Shore of Oahu, the third-largest island of Hawaii, is known for having some of the best waves in the world. Surfers from around the world flock to breaks like Backdoor, Waimea Bay, and Pipeline. However, there are still many popular surf spots around the world: Teahupo'o, located off the coast of Tahiti; Mavericks, California, United States; Cloudbreak, Tavarua Island, Fiji; Superbank, Gold Coast, Australia.[2]

In 2016 surfing was added by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) as an Olympic sport to begin at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan.[3]

The first gold medalists of the Tokyo 2020 surfing men and women's competitions were, respectively, the Brazilian Ítalo Ferreira and the American from Hawaii, Carissa Moore.[4][5]

Ítalo Ferreira

Origins and history[edit]

Main article: History of surfing

Peru[edit]

Caballitos de totora, reed watercraft used by fishermen for the past 3000 years at Huanchaco, Peru, known for its surf breaks

About three to five thousand years ago, cultures in ancient Peru fished in kayak-like watercraft (mochica) made of reeds that the fishermen surfed back to shore.[6][7] The Moche culture used the caballito de totora (little horse of totora), with archaeological evidence showing its use around 200 CE.[8] An early description of the Inca surfing in Callao was documented by Jesuit missionary José de Acosta in his 1590 publication Historia natural y moral de las Indias, writing:[9]It is true to see them go fishing in Callao de Lima, was for me a thing of great recreation, because there were many and each one in a balsilla caballero, or sitting stubbornly cutting the waves of the sea, which is rough where they fish, they looked like the Tritons, or Neptunes, who paint upon the water.

Polynesia[edit]

Hawaiians surfing, 1858

In Polynesian culture, surfing was an important activity. Modern surfing as we know it today is thought to have originated in Hawaii. The history of surfing dates to c. AD 400 in Polynesia, where Polynesians began to make their way to the Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands. They brought many of their customs with them including playing in the surf on Paipo (belly/body) boards. It was in Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing upright on boards was invented.[10]

Various European explorers witnessed surfing in Polynesia. Surfing may have been observed by British explorers at Tahiti in 1767. Samuel Wallis and the crew members of HMS Dolphin were the first Britons to visit the island in June of that year. Another candidate is the botanist Joseph Banks[11] who was part of the first voyage of James Cook on HMS Endeavour, arriving on Tahiti on 10 April 1769. Lieutenant James King was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii, when he was completing the journals of Captain James Cook (upon Cook's death in 1779).

In Herman Melville's 1849 novel Mardi, based on his experiences in Polynesia earlier that decade, the narrator describes the "Rare Sport at Ohonoo" (title of chap. 90): “For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in length; the width of a man's body; convex on both sides; highly polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation; invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling of the owner.”[12] When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, "In one place, we came upon a large company of naked natives of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing."[13]

References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa, where surfing was called fa'ase'e or se'egalu (see Augustin Krämer, The Samoa Islands[14]), and Tonga, far pre-dating the practice of surfing by Hawaiians and eastern Polynesians by over a thousand years.

West Africa[edit]

West Africans (e.g., Ghana, Ivory Coast, Liberia, Senegal) and western Central Africans (e.g., Cameroon) independently developed the skill of surfing.[15] Amid the 1640s CE, Michael Hemmersam provided an account of surfing in the Gold Coast: “the parents ‘tie their children to boards and throw them into the water.’”[15] In 1679 CE, Barbot provided an account of surfing among Elmina children in Ghana: “children at Elmina learned “to swim, on bits of boards, or small bundles of rushes, fasten’d under their stomachs, which is a good diversion to the spectators.”[15] James Alexander provided an account of surfing in Accra, Ghana in 1834 CE: “From the beach, meanwhile, might be seen boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under their stomachs. They waited for a surf; and came rolling like a cloud on top of it. But I was told that sharks occasionally dart in behind the rocks and ‘yam’ them.”[15] Thomas Hutchinson provided an account of surfing in southern Cameroon in 1861: “Fishermen rode small dugouts ‘no more than six feet in length, fourteen to sixteen inches in width, and from four to six inches in depth.’”[15]

California[edit]

A woman holding her surfboard about to surf in Morro Bay, California

In July 1885, three teenage Hawaiian princes took a break from their boarding school, St. Mathew's Hall in San Mateo, and came to cool off in Santa Cruz, California. There, David Kawānanakoa, Edward Keliʻiahonui and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on custom-shaped redwood boards, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn.[16] In 1890, the pioneer in agricultural education John Wrightson reputedly became the first British surfer when instructed by two Hawaiian students at his college.[17][18][19]

George Freeth (1883–1919) is often credited as being the "Father of Modern Surfing". He is thought to have been the first modern surfer.[20]

In 1907, the eclectic interests of the land baron Henry E. Huntington brought surfing to the California coast. While on vacation, Huntington had seen Hawaiian boys surfing the island waves. Looking for a way to entice visitors to the area of Redondo Beach, where he had heavily invested in real estate, he hired a young Hawaiian to ride surfboards. George Freeth decided to revive the art of surfing, but had little success with the huge 500 cm (16 ft) hardwood boards that were popular at that time. When he cut them in half to make them more manageable, he created the original "Long board", which made him the talk of the islands. To the delight of visitors, Freeth exhibited his surfing skills twice a day in front of the Hotel Redondo. Another native Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku, spread surfing to both the U.S. and Australia, riding the waves after displaying the swimming prowess that won him Olympic gold medals in 1912 and 1920.[21]

In 1975, a professional tour started.[22] That year Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer.[22]

Types[edit]

Tandem surfing[edit]

Tandem surfers in California

Tandem surfing is a sub-genre invented by the Father of Surfing Duke Kahanamoku in the 1920s.[23] It involves a couple usually a male called the foundation who while surfing lifts and holds the female called the flyer. Done for both exhibition and competitions the goal is to express elegance, strength and dancelike maneuvers while surfing.

[24]

Surf waves[edit]

See also: Ocean surface wave

Pipeline Barrel at Pūpūkea, Hawaii

Surfer getting tubed at Sunset on the North Shore of Oahu

A large wave breaking at Mavericks

Swell is generated when the wind blows consistently over a large space of open water, called the wind's fetch. The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind, and the length of its fetch and duration. Because of these factors, the surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low pressure systems.

Local wind conditions affect wave quality since the surface of a wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal conditions include a light to moderate "offshore" wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a "barrel" or "tube" wave. Waves are left-handed and right-handed depending upon the breaking formation of the wave.

Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break.[25] For example, there are beach breaks, reef breaks and point breaks.

The most important influence on wave shape is the topography of the seabed directly behind and immediately beneath the breaking wave. Each break is different since each location's underwater topography is unique. At beach breaks, sandbanks change shape from week to week. Surf forecasting is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts the size and direction of swells around the globe.

Swell regularity varies across the globe and throughout the year. During winter, heavy swells are generated in the mid-latitudes, when the North and South polar fronts shift toward the Equator. The predominantly Westerly winds generate swells that advance Eastward, so waves tend to be largest on West coasts during winter months. However, an endless train of mid-latitude cyclones cause the isobars to become undulated, redirecting swells at regular intervals toward the tropics.

East coasts also receive heavy winter swells when low-pressure cells form in the sub-tropics, where slow moving highs inhibit their movement. These lows produce a shorter fetch than polar fronts, however, they can still generate heavy swells since their slower movement increases the duration of a particular wind direction. The variables of fetch and duration both influence how long wind acts over a wave as it travels since a wave reaching the end of a fetch behaves as if the wind died.

During summer, heavy swells are generated when cyclones form in the tropics. Tropical cyclones form over warm seas, so their occurrence is influenced by El Niño & La Niña cycles. Their movements are unpredictable.

Surf travel and some surf camps offer surfers access to remote, tropical locations, where tradewinds ensure offshore conditions. Since winter swells are generated by mid-latitude cyclones, their regularity coincides with the passage of these lows. Swells arrive in pulses, each lasting for a couple of days, with a few days between each swell.

The availability of free model data from the NOAA has allowed the creation of several surf forecasting websites.

Tube shape and speed[edit]

The geometry of tube shape can be represented as a ratio between length and width.

Tube shape is defined by length to width ratio. A perfectly cylindrical vortex has a ratio of 1:1. Other forms include:

Square: <1:1

Round: 1-2:1

Almond: >2:1

Peel or peeling off as a descriptive term for the quality of a break has been defined as "a fast, clean, evenly falling curl line, perfect for surfing, and usually found at pointbreaks."[26]

Tube speed is the rate of advance of the break along the length of the wave, and is the speed at which the surfer must move along the wave to keep up with the advance of the tube.[27]

Tube speed can be described using the peel angle and wave celerity. Peel angle is the angle between the wave front and the horizontal projection of the point of break over time, which in a regular break is most easily represented by the line of white water left after the break. A break that closes out, or breaks all at once along its length, leaves white water parallel to the wave front, and has a peel angle of 0°. This is unsurfable as it would require infinite speed to progress along the face fast enough to keep up with the break. A break which advances along the wave face more slowly will leave a line of new white water at an angle to the line of the wave face.[27][28]

{\displaystyle V_{s}={\frac {c}{sin\alpha }}}

[27]

Where:

{\displaystyle V_{s}=}

velocity of surfer along the wave face

{\displaystyle c=}

wave celerity (velocity in direction of propagation)

{\displaystyle \alpha =}

peel angle

In most cases a peel angle less than 25° is too fast to surf.[27]

Fast: 30°

Medium: 45°

Slow: 60°

Wave intensity table

Fast

Medium

Slow

Square

The Cobra

Teahupoo

Shark Island

Round

Speedies, Gnaraloo

Banzai Pipeline

Almond

Lagundri Bay, Superbank

Jeffreys Bay, Bells Beach

Angourie Point

Wave intensity[edit]

The type of break depends on shoaling rate. Breaking waves can be classified as four basic types: spilling (ξb<0.4), plunging (0.4<ξb<2), collapsing (ξb>2) and surging (ξb>2), and which type occurs depends on the slope of the bottom.[27]

Waves suitable for surfing break as spilling or plunging types, and when they also have a suitable peel angle, their value for surfing is enhanced. Other factors such as wave height and period, and wind strength and direction can also influence steepness and intensity of the break, but the major influence on the type and shape of breaking waves is determined by the slope of the seabed before the break. The breaker type index and Iribarren number allow classification of breaker type as a function of wave steepness and seabed slope.[27]

Artificial reefs[edit]

The value of good surf in attracting surf tourism has prompted the construction of artificial reefs and sand bars. Artificial surfing reefs can be built with durable sandbags or concrete, and resemble a submerged breakwater. These artificial reefs not only provide a surfing location, but also dissipate wave energy and shelter the coastline from erosion. Ships such as Seli 1 that have accidentally stranded on sandy bottoms, can create sandbanks that give rise to good waves.[29]

An artificial reef known as Chevron Reef was constructed in El Segundo, California in hopes of creating a new surfing area. However, the reef failed to produce any quality waves and was removed in 2008. In Kovalam, South West India, an artificial reef has successfully provided the local community with a quality lefthander, stabilized coastal soil erosion, and provided good habitat for marine life.[30] ASR Ltd., a New Zealand-based company, constructed the Kovalam reef and is working on another reef in Boscombe, England.

Artificial waves[edit]

Surfing a stationary, artificial wave in Southern California

Even with artificial reefs in place, a tourist's vacation time may coincide with a "flat spell", when no waves are available. Completely artificial wave pools aim to solve that problem by controlling all the elements that go into creating perfect surf, however there are only a handful of wave pools that can simulate good surfing waves, owing primarily to construction and operation costs and potential liability. Most wave pools generate waves that are too small and lack the power necessary to surf. The Seagaia Ocean Dome, located in Miyazaki, Japan, was an example of a surfable wave pool. Able to generate waves with up to 3 m (10 ft) faces, the specialized pump held water in 20 vertical tanks positioned along the back edge of the pool. This allowed the waves to be directed as they approach the artificial sea floor. Lefts, Rights, and A-frames could be directed from this pump design providing for rippable surf and barrel rides. The Ocean Dome cost about $2 billion to build and was expensive to maintain.[31] The Ocean Dome was closed in 2007. In England, construction is nearing completion on the Wave,[32] situated near Bristol, which will enable people unable to get to the coast to enjoy the waves in a controlled environment, set in the heart of nature.

There are two main types of artificial waves that exist today. One being artificial or stationary waves which simulate a moving, breaking wave by pumping a layer of water against a smooth structure mimicking the shape of a breaking wave. Because of the velocity of the rushing water, the wave and the surfer can remain stationary while the water rushes by under the surfboard. Artificial waves of this kind provide the opportunity to try surfing and learn its basics in a moderately small and controlled environment near or far from locations with natural surf.

Maneuvers[edit]

A surfer going for the tube

Catching waves at a surfing contest on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii

Aerial views of a surfing competition at Salt Creek Beach, Dana Point, California.

Standup surfing begins when the surfer paddles toward shore in an attempt to match the speed of the wave (the same applies whether the surfer is standup paddling, bodysurfing, boogie-boarding or using some other type of watercraft, such as a waveski or kayak). Once the wave begins to carry the surfer forward, the surfer stands up and proceeds to ride the wave. The basic idea is to position the surfboard so it is just ahead of the breaking part (whitewash) of the wave, in the so-called 'pocket'. It is difficult for beginners to catch the wave at all.

Surfers' skills are tested by their ability to control their board in difficult conditions, riding challenging waves, and executing maneuvers such as strong turns and cutbacks (turning board back to the breaking wave) and carving (a series of strong back-to-back maneuvers). More advanced skills include the floater (riding on top of the breaking curl of the wave), and off the lip (banking off crest of the breaking wave). A newer addition to surfing is the progression of the air, whereby a surfer propels off the wave entirely up into the air and then successfully lands the board back on the wave.

The tube ride is considered to be the ultimate maneuver in surfing. As a wave breaks, if the conditions are ideal, the wave will break in an orderly line from the middle to the shoulder, enabling the experienced surfer to position themselves inside the wave as it is breaking. This is known as a tube ride. Viewed from the shore, the tube rider may disappear from view as the wave breaks over the rider's head. The longer the surfer remains in the tube, the more successful the ride. This is referred to as getting tubed, barrelled, shacked or pitted. Some of the world's best-known waves for tube riding include Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, Teahupoo in Tahiti and G-Land in Java. Other names for the tube include "the barrel", and "the pit".

Hanging ten and hanging five are moves usually specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all of the surfer's toes off the edge, also known as nose-riding. Hanging Five is having just one foot near the front, with five toes off the edge.

Cutback: Generating speed down the line and then turning back to reverse direction.

Snap: Quickly turning along the face or top of the wave, almost as if snapping the board back towards the wave. Typically done on steeper waves.

Blowtail: Pushing the tail of the board out of the back of the wave so that the fins leave the water.

Floater: Suspending the board atop the wave. Very popular on small waves.

Top-Turn: Turn off the top of the wave. Sometimes used to generate speed and sometimes to shoot spray.

Bottom Turn: A turn at the bottom or mid-face of the wave, this maneuver is used to set up other maneuvers such as the top turn, cutback and even aerials.

Airs/Aerials: These maneuvers have been becoming more and more prevalent in the sport in both competition and free surfing.[33] An air is when the surfer can achieve enough speed and approach a certain type of section of a wave that is supposed to act as a ramp and launch the surfer above the lip line of the wave, “catching air”, and landing either in the transition of the wave or the whitewash when hitting a close-out section.

Airs can either be straight airs or rotational airs. Straight airs have minimal rotation if any, but definitely no more rotation than 90 degrees. Rotational airs require a rotation of 90 degrees or more depending on the level of the surfer.

Types of rotations:

180 degrees – called an air reverse, this is when the surfer spins enough to land backwards, then reverts to their original positional with the help of the fins. This rotation can either be done frontside or backside and can spin right or left.

360 degrees – this is a full rotation air or “full rotor” where the surfer lands where they started or more, as long as they do not land backwards. When this is achieved front side on a wave spinning the opposite of an air reverse is called an alley-oop.

540 degrees – the surfer does a full rotation plus another 180 degrees and can be inverted or spinning straight, few surfers have been able to land this air.

Backflip – usually done with a double grab, this hard to land air is made for elite-level surfers.

Rodeo flip – usually done backside, it is a backflip with a 180 rotation, and is actually easier than a straight backflip.

Grabs – a surfer can help land an aerial maneuver by grabbing the surfboard, keeping them attached to the board and keeping the board under their feet. Common types of grabs include:

Indy – a grab on the surfers inside rail going frontside, outside rail going backside with their backhand.

Slob – a grab on the surfers inside rail going frontside, outside rail going backside with their front hand.

Lien – A grab on the surfers outside rail frontside, inside rail going backside with their front hand.

Stalefish – A grab on the surfers outside rail frontside, inside rail backside with their backhand.

Double grab – A grab on the surfers inside and outside rail, the inside rail with the backhand and the outside rail with the front hand.

Terms[edit]

The Glossary of surfing includes some of the extensive vocabulary used to describe various aspects of the sport of surfing as described in literature on the subject.[34][35] In some cases terms have spread to a wider cultural use. These terms were originally coined by people who were directly involved in the sport of surfing.

Learning[edit]

Learning to surf

Many popular surfing destinations have surf schools and surf camps that offer lessons. Surf camps for beginners and intermediates are multi-day lessons that focus on surfing fundamentals. They are designed to take new surfers and help them become proficient riders. All-inclusive surf camps offer overnight accommodations, meals, lessons and surfboards. Most surf lessons begin with instruction and a safety briefing on land, followed by instructors helping students into waves on longboards or "softboards". The softboard is considered the ideal surfboard for learning, due to the fact it is safer, and has more paddling speed and stability than shorter boards. Funboards are also a popular shape for beginners as they combine the volume and stability of the longboard with the manageable size of a smaller surfboard.[36] New and inexperienced surfers typically learn to catch waves on softboards around the 210 to 240 cm (7 to 8 ft) funboard size. Due to the softness of the surfboard the chance of getting injured is substantially minimized.

Typical surfing instruction is best-performed one-on-one, but can also be done in a group setting. Post-COVID, there's been a shift towards online and land-based surf coaching and training. [37][38] Online surf coaching is allowing surfers to learn at their own pace and convenience from anywhere. Land-based training, such as skateboard simulations, offers a way to practice maneuvers repeatedly, refining techniques with the guidance of professional coaches either in person or remotely using video analysis apps. The most popular surf locations offer perfect surfing conditions for beginners, as well as challenging breaks for advanced students. The ideal conditions for learning would be small waves that crumble and break softly, as opposed to the steep, fast-peeling waves desired by more experienced surfers. When available, a sandy seabed is generally safer.

Surfing can be broken into several skills: paddling strength, positioning to catch the wave, timing, and balance. Paddling out requires strength, but also the mastery of techniques to break through oncoming waves (duck diving, eskimo roll also known as turtle). Take-off positioning requires experience at predicting the wave set and where it will break. The surfer must pop up quickly as soon as the wave starts pushing the board forward. Preferred positioning on the wave is determined by experience at reading wave features including where the wave is breaking.[39] Balance plays a crucial role in standing on a surfboard. Thus, balance training exercises are good preparation. Practicing with a balance board, longboard (skateboard), surfskate or swing board helps novices master the art of surfing.[40][41] However, it's important to note that these land-based training methods have faced criticism within the surf coaching community.[42] Concerns include the potential for developing poor surfing style and habits, such as excessive wiggling, due to training on flat surfaces which do not accurately mimic the dynamic nature of ocean waves.[43]

To address these limitations, training in a skate bowl is recommended. Skate bowls can offer a more realistic simulation of the centrifugal forces experienced while surfing. This type of training helps in developing better control and style by replicating the curved, wave-like shapes and motions surfers encounter in the water. Integrating skate bowl training can provide a more comprehensive preparation for the surfing experience, balancing the benefits of basic balance training with the nuances of wave dynamics.

The repetitive cycle of paddling, popping up, and balancing requires stamina and physical strength. Having a proper warm-up routine can help prevent injuries.[44]

Equipment[edit]

Waxing a surfboard

Surfboard leash

Surfing can be done on various equipment, including surfboards, longboards, stand up paddle boards (SUPs), bodyboards, wave skis, skimboards, kneeboards, surf mats and macca's trays. Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and were large and heavy (often up to 370 cm (12 ft) long and having a mass of 70 kg (150 lb)). Lighter balsa wood surfboards (first made in the late 1940s and early 1950s) were a significant improvement, not only in portability, but also in increasing maneuverability.

Most modern surfboards are made of fiberglass foam (PU), with one or more wooden strips or "stringers", fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin (PE). An emerging board material is epoxy resin and Expanded Polystyrene foam (EPS) which is stronger and lighter than traditional PU/PE construction. Even newer designs incorporate materials such as carbon fiber and variable-flex composites in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy or polyester resins. Since epoxy/EPS surfboards are generally lighter, they will float better than a traditional PU/PE board of similar size, shape and thickness. This makes them easier to paddle and faster in the water. However, a common complaint of EPS boards is that they do not provide as much feedback as a traditional PU/PE board. For this reason, many advanced surfers prefer that their surfboards be made from traditional materials.

Other equipment includes a leash (to stop the board from drifting away after a wipeout and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf wax, traction pads (to keep a surfer's feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and fins (also known as skegs) which can either be permanently attached (glassed-on) or interchangeable. Sportswear designed or particularly suitable for surfing may be sold as boardwear (the term is also used in snowboarding). In warmer climates, swimsuits, surf trunks or boardshorts are worn, and occasionally rash guards; in cold water, surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures.[45] A newer introduction is a rash vest with a thin layer of titanium to provide maximum warmth without compromising mobility.[clarification needed] In recent years, there have been advancements in technology that have allowed surfers to pursue even bigger waves with added elements of safety. Big wave surfers are now experimenting with inflatable vests or colored dye packs to help decrease their odds of drowning.[46]

A variety of surfboards

There are many different surfboard sizes, shapes, and designs in use today. Modern longboards, generally 270 to 300 cm (9 to 10 ft) in length, are reminiscent of the earliest surfboards, but now benefit from modern innovations in surfboard shaping and fin design. Competitive longboard surfers need to be competent at traditional walking manoeuvres, as well as the short-radius turns normally associated with shortboard surfing. The modern shortboard began life in the late 1960s and has evolved into today's common thruster style, defined by its three fins, usually around 180 to 210 cm (6 to 7 ft) in length. The thruster was invented by Australian shaper Simon Anderson.

Midsize boards, often called funboards, provide more maneuverability than a longboard, with more flotation than a shortboard. While many surfers find that funboards live up to their name, providing the best of both surfing modes, others are critical.

"It is the happy medium of mediocrity," writes Steven Kotler. "Funboard riders either have nothing left to prove or lack the skills to prove anything."[47]

There are also various niche styles, such as the Egg, a longboard-style short board targeted at people who want to ride a shortboard but need more paddle power. The Fish, a board that is typically shorter, flatter, and wider than a normal shortboard, often with a split tail (known as a swallow tail). The Fish often has two or four fins and is specifically designed for surfing smaller waves. For big waves, there is the Gun, a long, thick board with a pointed nose and tail (known as a pintail) specifically designed for big waves.

The physics of surfing[edit]

Tow-in surfing in Nazaré, PortugalGiant breaking waves in Praia do NorteThe Praia do Norte, Nazaré (North Beach) was listed in the Guinness World Records for the biggest waves ever surfed.

The physics of surfing involves the physical oceanographic properties of wave creation in the surf zone, the characteristics of the surfboard, and the surfer's interaction with the water and the board.

Wave formation[edit]

Ocean waves are defined as a collection of dislocated water parcels that undergo a cycle of being forced past their normal position and being restored back to their normal position.[48] Wind causes ripples and eddies to form waves that gradually gain speed and distance (fetch). Waves increase in energy and speed and then become longer and stronger.[49] The fully-developed sea has the strongest wave action that experiences storms lasting 10-hours and creates 15 m (49.2 ft) wave heights in the open ocean.[48]

The waves created in the open ocean are classified as deep-water waves. Deep-water waves have no bottom interaction and the orbits of these water molecules are circular; their wavelength is short relative to water depth and the velocity decays before reaching the bottom of the water basin.[48] Deep water waves are waves in water depths greater than half their wavelengths.[citation needed] Wind forces waves to break in the deep sea.[clarification needed]

Deep-water waves travel to shore and become shallow-water waves when the water depth is less than half of their wavelength, and the wave motion becomes constrained by the bottom, causing the orbit paths to be flattened to ellipses. The bottom exerts a frictional drag on the bottom of the wave, which decreases the celerity (or the speed of the waveform), and causes refraction. Slowing the wave forces it to shorten which increases the height and steepness, and the top (crest) falls because the velocity of the top of the wave becomes greater than the velocity of the bottom of the wave where the drag occurs.[48]

The surf zone is the place of convergence of multiple waves types creating complex wave patterns. A wave suitable for surfing results from maximum speeds of 5 metres per second (16 ft/s). This speed is relative because local onshore winds can cause waves to break.[49] In the surf zone, shallow water waves are carried by global winds to the beach and interact with local winds to make surfing waves.[49][50]

Different onshore and off-shore wind patterns in the surf zone create different types of waves. Onshore winds cause random wave breaking patterns and are more suitable for experienced surfers.[49][50] Light offshore winds create smoother waves, while strong direct offshore winds cause plunging or large barrel waves.[49] Barrel waves are large because the water depth is small when the wave breaks. Thus, the breaker intensity (or force) increases, and the wave speed and height increase.[49] Off-shore winds produce non-surfable conditions by flattening a weak swell. Weak swell is made from surface gravity forces and has long wavelengths.[49][51]

Wave conditions for surfing[edit]

Surfing waves can be analyzed using the following parameters: breaking wave height, wave peel angle (α), wave breaking intensity, and wave section length. The breaking wave height has two measurements, the relative heights estimated by surfers and the exact measurements done by physical oceanographers. Measurements done by surfers were 1.36 to 2.58 times higher than the measurements done by scientists. The scientifically concluded wave heights that are physically possible to surf are 1 to 20 m (3.3 to 66 ft).[49]

The wave peel angle is one of the main constituents of a potential surfing wave. Wave peel angle measures the distance between the peel-line and the line tangent to the breaking crest line. This angle controls the speed of the wave crest. The speed of the wave is an addition of the propagation velocity vector (Vw) and peel velocity vector (Vp), which results in the overall velocity of the wave (Vs).[49]

Wave breaking intensity measures the force of the wave as it breaks, spills, or plunges (a plunging wave is termed by surfers as a "barrel wave"). Wave section length is the distance between two breaking crests in a wave set. Wave section length can be hard to measure because local winds, non-linear wave interactions, island sheltering, and swell interactions can cause multifarious wave configurations in the surf zone.[49]

The parameters breaking wave height, wave peel angle (α), and wave breaking intensity, and wave section length are important because they are standardized by past oceanographers who researched surfing; these parameters have been used to create a guide that matches the type of wave formed and the skill level of surfer.[49]

Table 1: Wave type and surfer skill level[49]

Skill level

Peel angle (degrees)

Wave height (meters)

Section speed (meters/second)

Section length (meters)

General locations of waves

Beginner

60-70

2.5

Low Gradient Breaks;[citation needed] Atlantic Beach, Florida

Intermediate

2.5

Bells Beach; Australia[citation needed]

Competent

40-50

40-60

Kirra Point; Burleigh Heads

Top Amateur

Bingin Beach; Padang Padang Beach

Top World Surfer

>27

Banzai Pipeline; Shark Island; Pipes, Encinitas

Table 1 shows a relationship of smaller peel angles correlating with a higher skill level of the surfer. Smaller wave peel angles increase the velocities of waves. A surfer must know how to react and paddle quickly to match the speed of the wave to catch it. Therefore, more experience is required to catch low peel angle waves. More experienced surfers can handle longer section lengths, increased velocities, and higher wave heights.[49] Different locations offer different types of surfing conditions for each skill level.

Surf breaks[edit]

A surf break is an area with an obstruction or an object that causes a wave to break. Surf breaks entail multiple scale phenomena. Wave section creation has microscale factors of peel angle and wave breaking intensity. The micro-scale components influence wave height and variations on wave crests. The mesoscale components of surf breaks are the ramp, platform, wedge, or ledge that may be present at a surf break. Macro-scale processes are the global winds that initially produce offshore waves. Types of surf breaks are headlands (point break), beach break, river/estuary entrance bar, reef breaks, and ledge breaks.[49]

Headland (point break)[edit]

A headland or point break interacts with the water by causing refraction around the point or headland. The point absorbs the high-frequency waves and long-period waves persist, which are easier to surf. Examples of locations that have headland or point break-induced surf breaks are Dunedin (New Zealand), Raglan (New Zealand), Malibu (California), Rincon (California), and Kirra (Australia).[49]

Beach break[edit]

A beach break is an area of open coastline where the waves break over a sand-bottom. They are the most common, yet also the most volatile of surf breaks. Wave breaks happen successively at beach breaks, as in there are multiple peaks to surf at a single beach break location. Example locations are Tairua and Aramoana Beach (New Zealand) and the Gold Coast (Australia).[49]

A group of surfers surfing a beach break in Juno Beach, Florida.

River or estuary entrance bar[edit]

A river or estuary entrance bar creates waves from the ebb-tidal delta, sediment outflow, and tidal currents. An ideal estuary entrance bar exists in Whangamata Bar, New Zealand.[49]

Reef break[edit]

A reef break is conducive to surfing because large waves consistently break over the reef. The reef is usually made of coral, and because of this, many injuries occur while surfing reef breaks. However, the waves that are produced by reef breaks are some of the best in the world. Famous reef breaks are present in Padang Padang (Indonesia), Pipeline (Hawaii), Uluwatu (Bali), and Teahupo'o (Tahiti).[49][52]

Ledge break[edit]

A ledge break is formed by steep rocks ledges that make intense waves because the waves travel through deeper water then abruptly reach shallower water at the ledge. Shark Island, Australia is a location with a ledge break. Ledge breaks create difficult surfing conditions, sometimes only allowing body surfing as the only feasible way to confront the waves.[49]

Jetties and their impacts on wave formation in the surf zone[edit]

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Jetties are added to bodies of water to regulate erosion, preserve navigation channels, and make harbors. Jetties are classified into four different types and have two main controlling variables: the type of delta[clarification needed] and the size of the jetty.[53]

Type 1 jetty[edit]

The first classification is a type 1 jetty. This type of jetty is significantly longer than the surf zone width and the waves break at the shore end of the jetty. The effect of a Type 1 jetty is sediment accumulation in a wedge formation on the jetty. These waves are large and increase in size as they pass over the sediment wedge formation. An example of a Type 1 jetty is Mission Beach, San Diego, California. This 1000-meter jetty was installed in 1950 at the mouth of Mission Bay. The surf waves happen north of the jetty, are longer waves, and are powerful. The bathymetry of the sea bottom in Mission Bay has a wedge shape formation that causes the waves to refract as they become closer to the jetty.[53] The waves converge constructively after they refract and increase the sizes of the waves.

Type 2 jetty[edit]

A type 2 jetty occurs in an ebb-tidal delta, a delta transitioning between high and low tide. This area has shallow water, refraction, and distinctive seabed shapes that create large wave heights.[53]

An example of a type 2 jetty is called "The Poles" in Atlantic Beach, Florida. Atlantic Beach is known to have flat waves, with exceptions during major storms. However, "The Poles" has larger than normal waves due to a 500-meter jetty that was installed on the south side of St. Johns. This jetty was built to make a deep channel in the river. It formed a delta at "The Poles". This is a special area because the jetty increases wave size for surfing when comparing pre-conditions and post-conditions of the southern St. Johns River mouth area.[53]

The wave size at "The Poles" depends on the direction of the incoming water. When easterly waters (from 55°) interact with the jetty, they create waves larger than southern waters (from 100°). When southern waves (from 100°) move toward "The Poles", one of the waves breaks north of the southern jetty and the other breaks south of the jetty. This does not allow for merging to make larger waves. Easterly waves, from 55°, converge north of the jetty and unite to make bigger waves.[53]

Type 3 jetty[edit]

A type 3 jetty is in an ebb-tidal area with an unchanging seabed that has naturally created waves. Examples of a Type 3 jetty occurs in “Southside” Tamarack, Carlsbad, California.[53]

Type 4 jetty[edit]

A type 4 jetty is one that no longer functions nor traps sediment. The waves are created from reefs in the surf zone. A type 4 jetty can be found in Tamarack, Carlsbad, California.[53]

Rip currents[edit]

Main article: Rip current

Rip currents are fast, narrow currents that are caused by onshore transport within the surf zone and the successive return of the water seaward.[54][55] The wedge bathymetry makes a convenient and consistent rip current of 5–10 meters that brings the surfers to the “take-off point” then out to the beach.[53]

Oceanographers have two theories on rip current formation. The wave interaction model assumes that two edges of waves interact, create differing wave heights, and cause longshore transport of nearshore currents. The Boundary Interaction Model assumes that the topography of the sea bottom causes nearshore circulation and longshore transport; the result of both models is a rip current.[54]

Rip currents can be extremely strong and narrow as they extend out of the surf zone into deeper water, reaching speeds from 0.5 m/s (1.6 ft/s) and up to 2.5 m/s (8.2 ft/s),[55][56] which is faster than any human can swim. The water in the jet is sediment rich, bubble rich, and moves rapidly.[55] The rip head of the rip current has long shore movement. Rip currents are common on beaches with mild slopes that experience sizeable and frequent oceanic swell.[56]

On the surfboard[edit]

A longer surfboard of 300 cm (10 ft) causes more friction with the water; therefore, it will be slower than a smaller and lighter board with a length of 180 cm (6 ft). Longer boards are good for beginners who need help balancing. Smaller boards are good for more experienced surfers who want to have more control and maneuverability.[51]

When practicing the sport of surfing, the surfer paddles out past the wave break to wait for a wave. When a surfable wave arrives, the surfer must paddle extremely fast to match the velocity of the wave so the wave can accelerate him or her.[51]

When the surfer is at wave speed, the surfer must quickly pop up, stay low, and stay toward the front of the wave to become stable and prevent falling as the wave steepens. The acceleration is less toward the front than toward the back. The physics behind the surfing of the wave involves the horizontal acceleration force (F·sinθ) and the vertical force (F·cosθ=mg). Therefore, the surfer should lean forward to gain speed, and lean on the back foot to brake. Also, to increase the length of the ride of the wave, the surfer should travel parallel to the wave crest.[51]

Dangers[edit]

Drowning[edit]

Surfing, like all water sports, carries the inherent risk of drowning.[57] Although the board assists a surfer in staying buoyant, it can become separated from the user.[58] A leash, attached to the ankle or knee, can keep a board from being swept away, but does not keep a rider on the board or above water. In some cases, possibly including the drowning of professional surfer Mark Foo, a leash can even be a cause of drowning by snagging on a reef or other object and holding the surfer underwater.[59] By keeping the surfboard close to the surfer during a wipeout, a leash also increases the chances that the board may strike the rider, which could knock them unconscious and lead to drowning. A fallen rider's board can become trapped in larger waves, and if the rider is attached by a leash, they can be dragged for long distances underwater.[59] Surfers should be careful to remain in smaller surf until they have acquired the advanced skills and experience necessary to handle bigger waves and more challenging conditions. However, even world-class surfers have drowned in extremely challenging conditions.[60]

Collisions[edit]

A surfer exiting a closeout

Under the wrong set of conditions, anything that a surfer's body can come in contact with is a potential hazard, including sand bars, rocks, small ice, reefs, surfboards, and other surfers.[61] Collisions with these objects can sometimes cause injuries such as cuts and scrapes and in rare instances, death.

A large number of injuries, up to 66%,[62] are caused by collision with a surfboard (nose or fins). Fins can cause deep lacerations and cuts,[63] as well as bruising. While these injuries can be minor, they can open the skin to infection from the sea; groups like Surfers Against Sewage campaign for cleaner waters to reduce the risk of infections. Local bugs and diseases can be risk factors when surfing around the globe.[64]

Falling off a surfboard or colliding with others is commonly referred to as a wipeout.

Marine life[edit]

Sea life can sometimes cause injuries (Bethany Hamilton) and even fatalities. Animals such as sharks,[65] stingrays, Weever fish, seals and jellyfish can sometimes present a danger.[66] Warmer-water surfers often do the "stingray shuffle" as they walk out through the shallows, shuffling their feet in the sand to scare away stingrays that may be resting on the bottom.[67]

Rip currents[edit]

Rip current warning sign

Rip currents are water channels that flow away from the shore. Under the wrong circumstances these currents can endanger both experienced and inexperienced surfers. Since a rip current appears to be an area of flat water, tired or inexperienced swimmers or surfers may enter one and be carried out beyond the breaking waves. Although many rip currents are much smaller, the largest rip currents have a width of 12–15 m (40–50 ft). The flow of water moving out towards the sea in a rip will be stronger than most swimmers, making swimming back to shore difficult, however, by paddling parallel to the shore, a surfer can easily exit a rip current. Alternatively, some surfers actually ride on a rip current because it is a fast and effortless way to get out beyond the zone of breaking waves.[68]

Seabed[edit]

The seabed can pose a risk for surfers. If a surfer falls while riding a wave, the wave tosses and tumbles the surfer around, often in a downwards direction. At reef breaks and beach breaks, surfers have been seriously injured and even killed, because of a violent collision with the sea bed, the water above which can sometimes be very shallow, especially at beach breaks or reef breaks during low tide. Cyclops, Western Australia, for example, is one of the biggest and thickest reef breaks in the world, with waves measuring up to 10 m (33 ft) high, but the reef below is only about 2 m (7 ft) below the surface of the water.

Microorganisms[edit]

A January 2018 study by the University of Exeter called the "Beach Bum Survey" found surfers and bodyboarders to be three times as likely as non-surfers to harbor antibiotic-resistant E. coli and four times as likely to harbor other bacteria capable of easily becoming antibiotic resistant. The researchers attributed this to the fact that surfers swallow roughly ten times as much seawater as swimmers.[69][70]

Ear damage[edit]

Man wearing protective ear plugs

Surfers sometimes use ear protection such as ear plugs to avoid surfer's ear, inflammation of the ear or other damage. Surfer's ear is where the bone near the ear canal grows after repeated exposure to cold water, making the ear canal narrower. The narrowed canal makes it harder for water to drain from the ear. This can result in pain, infection and sometimes ringing of the ear.

Ear plugs designed for surfers, swimmers and other water athletes are primarily made to keep water out of the ear, thereby letting a protective pocket of air stay inside the ear canal. They can also block cold air, dirt and bacteria. Many designs are made to let sound through, and either float and/or have a leash in case the plug accidentally gets bumped out.

Surf rash[edit]

Surf rash appears in many different ways on the skin, commonly as a painful red bumpy patch located on the surfer's chest or inner legs. A rash guard will lessen the incidence of surf rash caused by abrasion or sunburn. Healing ointments such as petroleum jelly can be used to treat irritated skin.[71]

Spinal cord[edit]

Surfer's myelopathy is a rare spinal cord injury causing paralysis of the lower extremities, caused by hyperextension of the back. This is due to one of the main blood vessels of the spine becoming kinked, depriving the spinal cord of oxygen. In some cases the paralysis is permanent. Although any activity where the back is arched can cause this condition (i.e. yoga, pilates, etc.), this rare phenomenon has most often been seen in those surfing for the first time. According to DPT Sergio Florian, some recommendations for preventing myelopathy is proper warm up, limiting the session length and sitting on the board while waiting for waves, rather than lying.[72]

Surfers and surf culture[edit]

Main article: Surf culture

The Shaka sign

Surfers represent a diverse culture based on riding the waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity, while others make it the central focus of their lives. Surfing culture in the US is most dominant in Hawaii and California, because these two states offer the best surfing conditions. However, waves can be found wherever there is coastline, and a tight-knit yet far-reaching subculture of surfers has emerged throughout America. Some historical markers of the culture included the woodie, the station wagon used to carry surfers' boards, as well as boardshorts, the long swim shorts typically worn while surfing. Surfers also wear wetsuits in colder regions and when the seasons cool the air and water.

During the 1960s, as surfing caught on in California, its popularity spread through American pop culture. Several teen movies, starting with the Gidget series in 1959, transformed surfing into a dream life for American youth. Later movies, including Beach Party (1963), Ride the Wild Surf (1964), and Beach Blanket Bingo (1965) promoted the California dream of sun and surf. Surf culture also fueled the early records of the Beach Boys.

The sport is also a significant part of Australia's eastern coast sub-cultural life,[73] especially in New South Wales, where the weather and water conditions are most favourable for surfing.

The sport of surfing now represents a multibillion-dollar industry, especially in clothing and fashion markets. Founded in 1964, the International Surfing Association (ISA) is the oldest foundation associated with surfing formed to better improve surfing and recognized by the International Olympic Committee as the leading authority on surfing. National and international surf competitions began in 1964. In addition, The World Surf League (WSL) was established in 1976 and promotes various championship tours, hosting top competitors in some of the best surf spots around the globe. A small number of people make a career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships and performing for photographers and videographers in far-flung destinations; they are typically referred to as freesurfers. Sixty-six surfers on a 13 m (42 ft) long surfboard set a record in Huntington Beach, California for most people on a surfboard at one time.[citation needed] Dale Webster consecutively surfed for 14,641 days, making it his main life focus.[citation needed]

When the waves were flat, surfers persevered with sidewalk surfing, which is now called skateboarding. Sidewalk surfing has a similar feel to surfing and requires only a paved road or sidewalk. To create the feel of the wave, surfers even sneaked into empty backyard swimming pools to ride in, known as pool skating. Eventually, surfing made its way to the slopes with the invention of the Snurfer, later credited as the first snowboard. Many other board sports have been invented over the years, but all can trace their heritage back to surfing.[citation needed]

Many surfers claim to have a spiritual connection with the ocean, describing surfing, the surfing experience, both in and out of the water, as a type of spiritual experience or a religion.[74]

9 Best Surfing Spots in the Philippines: Best Time to Go & Travel Tips | Guide to the Philippines

st Surfing Spots in the Philippines: Best Time to Go & Travel Tips | Guide to the PhilippinesVacation PackagesTours & TicketsTransfersHotels Car RentalTravel TipsFlights• • •Book your trip nowExplore the PhilippinesInformation about Islands & Beaches in PhilippinesOpen gallery9 Best Surfing Spots in the Philippines: Best Time to Go & Travel TipsBy Marky Ramone GoVerified expertJump to chapter9. Lanuza, Surigao Del Sur8. Guiuan and Calicoan Island, Eastern Samar7. Baras, Catanduanes6. Daet, Camarines Norte5. San Narciso, Zambales4. Real, Quezon3. San Juan, La Union2. Baler, Aurora1. Siargao

Explore the top surfing spots of the Philippines! Where are the best places to surf in the Philippines aside from Siargao Island? Here are some of the highly recommended surfing destinations in the country.

With over 7,000 islands and a coastline of over 36,000 km, it’s no wonder that surfing is one of the best water activities in the Philippines. Cloud 9 in Siargao has been consistently rated as one of the best surfing spots in the world and top destination for surfing in Asia, but it’s not the only place where you can get stoked in the country.

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If you are going on a surfing trip in the Philippines, check out our recommended surf spots from Baler and San Juan in Luzon and other parts in the country and the best time to go there. Whether you are a seasoned surfer or a newbie wanting to learn the sport, the Philippines has surfing spots perfect for you.

9. Lanuza, Surigao Del Sur

Best for: All levels

Lanuza Bay’s underwater is one of the most heavily concentrated biodiversity marine systems in the country. There are several rare aquatic species you can find here. Above water, the bay of Lanuza also offers another delight in the form of massive swells that makes surfers happy to no end.

Lanuza has a long right-hander that's best for classic longboard surfers. Advanced surfers enjoy the barreling reef breaks, too. Surfers from Siargao (a 5-6 hour trip) often come here to enjoy a more secluded surfing playground.

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Note that it can be a bit quiet here, with most commercial establishments closing at 6 pm. If you want more excitement, visit in November, when the Lanuza Surfing Festival is held.

Best time to surf: November to March is the peak of surfing season in Lanuza.

8. Guiuan and Calicoan Island, Eastern Samar

Best for: Intermediate to advanced surfers

It took a while for these two places to recover from the battering of super typhoon Yolanda (Haiyan) in 2013, but it nevertheless remained on top of the list of avid surfers from around the Philippines.

Guiuan was first to put this province on the country’s surfing map, thanks to its long stretch of fine white sandy beach and crystal clear waters that produce consistent, almost near-perfect barrel waves.

Calicoan Island, on the other hand, is a great place to laze around in with a cold beer in hand. This surfing destination is popular for its exposed reef breaks. Because of the complexity of the waves, and the fact that there is no channel, only seasoned surfers are advised to play here.

Uncrowded, basic, and laid back, Eastern Samar remains an off-the-grid destination for travelers, most especially surfers, who want to have an almost isolated beach break to themselves.

Best time to surf: Surf season is from the months of November to March, with the summer months best for beginners. The North-East Monsoon season that blows in the ideal swells occurs around September to October.

7. Baras, Catanduanes

Best for: Beginners to intermediate surfers

Catanduanes, otherwise referred to as the “Happy Island,” boasts of a stunning landscape comprising of rolling hills, hidden lagoons, waterfalls, secluded beaches, natural pools, and spectacular rock formations.

A lot less crowded compared to Siargao, Catanduanes can easily be circled riding a motorcycle and there are a lot of places to chill and relax. For surfers, however, the beach of Puraran in Baras is the only place they want to be, as there is a consistent supply of barreling waves – dubbed “The Majestic” – coming from the Pacific Ocean.

Every year, local and national surfers join the Puraran Surfing Cup, held as part of the Catandungan Festival every October.

Best time to surf: The right-hand barrel reef breaks are great for advanced and professional surfers from July to October. There are surf spots for beginners as well, as long as there's a surf instructor. The best time for beginners to go is during the summer season, from February to June.

6. Daet, Camarines Norte

Best for: All levels

The Pacific Ocean is really one swell factory. Another beach along the coast that’s great for riding the waves is Bagasbas Beach in Daet, Camarines Norte.

Comparable to Baler because of its extended shoreline, surfing in Bagasbas is ideal for beginners because of its consistent strong waves and sandy beach. For advanced surfers, Bagasbas is an endless playground where the waves just keep on coming and surfer junkies keep on getting stoked.

Best time to surf in Bagasbas: The winds of the Pacific Ocean blows in the best waves during the months of July to January. Make sure to check the weather forecast for a better surfing experience.

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5. San Narciso, Zambales

Best for: Beginners to intermediate surfers

Surfing as a sport just recently started in Zambales, specifically in San Narciso. Mostly known for longboard waves, it gets the same swells as La Union during typhoon season.

Due to its relative proximity to Manila – a 3-hour drive – it is starting to become a go-to surfing destination, as well as a place for board sports (skate, skim, surf, and bodyboard), for many people based in the metro.

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The towns of San Felipe, San Antonio, and San Narciso are the best known for surfing, with the best surf spots in Pundaquit Beach (San Antonio), Crystal Beach Resort (San Antonio), and Liwliwa (San Felipe).

More than surfing, the jovial atmosphere on the tourist spots in Zambales has become a magnet that attracts strangers to become friends. Similar to most surfing spots in the Philippines, the beach vibe in Zambales draws artists, musicians, poets, writers, and everyone in between whose common denominator is the desire to learn or practice the sport of surfing.

While the weather conditions aren’t as consistent as the ones in Siargao, Bagasbas, and Baler, there are a lot of fun activities to do while waiting for the swell.

4. Real, Quezon

Best for: All levels

Don’t let the dark sands of the beach in Real, Quezon fool you into thinking that not much is happening here, surfing-wise. Once surf season starts, the town of Real in Quezon Province – a 3-4-hour drive from Manila – attracts beginning surfers from all over the country, particularly those based in Metro Manila.

The beachside condition in Real can be compared to the ones in Baler and La Union a decade ago, where tourism development was still at a minimum level.

If you are looking for surfing tours that is only a short drive away from Manila and have the waves of Baler and La Union on a good day, Real is your best option. It has a smaller crowd, too, compared to other surf destinations in the country.

Best time to surf in Real: Surfing season in Real is from August to March, with the best waves from October to February.

3. San Juan, La Union

Best for: All levels

San Juan has undergone rapid development in the last few years brought about by the popularity of surfing here. Even former Philippine President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo was featured in the news showing her completing a long ride over the waves of San Juan. It doesn't hurt that there are a lot of tourist spots in La Union.

Resorts in La Union ranging from backpackers to luxury line up the long coast of San Juan. A thriving community of local surfers has produced some of the best in the country, many of whom have participated in various competitions around the world.

If you want to learn how to surf, there are surf camps scattered all over San Juan, including well-known surfer Luke Landrigan’s Billabong Surf Camp. You’ll get to check out San Juan’s can’t miss surf spots including The Point (for expert surfers), The Bowl (expert surfers), and The Beach Break (for beginners).

Other spots not far from San Juan include Darigayos (best from May to September), Bacnotan (good from October to April), and Car-rille (November to March).

Best time to surf in San Juan: Swells in San Juan peak from July to October and November to March with competition-level waves coming in from December to January.

2. Baler, Aurora

Best for: All levels

“I love the smell of napalm in the morning. It smells like…victory,” so goes the classic line in the 1979 movie Apocalypse Now, uttered by Col. Kilgore. A story of the Vietnam War, the movie was not actually filmed in Vietnam, but in the small town of Baler in Aurora, a 6-hour drive from Manila.

Book a Dingalan Aurora day tour

In the movie, Colonel Kilgore had his men surf at what is now known as Charlie’s Point, while locals watched from a distance. When the crew finished filming, the surfboards they left behind were used by the local children who taught themselves to surf with it. Thus was born the sport of surfing in the Philippines.

Today, surfing is becoming a popular weekend activity; both for travelers coming from Manila, or foreign travelers looking for the best stoke. They go to Baler to either surf, learn to surf, or just surf all over again not only at Charlie’s Point, the most popular surf spot in Baler, but also at Cemento, among others.

Hostels, hip cafes, and artisan restaurants now line up the long shoreline of Baler and have become Baler tourist spots, creating a communal vibe where travelers, artists, and locals bond over their shared love for surfing.

Best time to surf in Baler: All-year-round but the months from October to March brings in massive northerly waves.

1. Siargao

Best for: Intermediate to advanced surfers

Known worldwide for its perfect barreling right-hand reef break, Cloud 9 in Siargao is the number 1 destination for expert and newbie surfers alike. Go around the island and you’ll meet foreigners in Siargao resorts who visited the island and never left.

What’s not to like? There are a number of Siargao tourist spots that you can visit, such as natural pools, hidden lagoons, lush countryside, and many cool places to hang out and dine with friends.

The biggest draw, of course, is the surf spots that range from challenging reef breaks great for experts, to gentle waves perfect for beginners.

When on the lineup in General Luna, where Cloud 9 is located, keep on the lookout for celebrities known to surf in Siargao, including Red Hot Chili Peppers’ lead singer Anthony Kiedis.

Check out other activities in Siargao that you can do aside from surfing

See destinations for solo travel in the Philippines

Best Time to Surf in Siargao: The Siargao surfing season starts in September and lasts until May, while peaking from November to February where perfect barrels become a regular occurrence at the lineup.

See our popular Siargao Vacation PackagesHassle-Free 4-Day Budget Island Package to Siargao with Accommodations & Airport Transfers3-Day Relaxing Budget Island Package to Siargao with Accommodations & Airport Transfers3-Day Laid-back Island Package to Siargao at G Villas with Airfare, Accommodations & TransfersSee all tours

Ride the Waves of the Philippines!

Surfing in the Philippines may be only in its infancy stage compared to surfing in other countries. In the last few years, however, it has steadily grown and has achieved a large following. Filipinos have already started joining international surfing competitions, debuting at the International Surfing Association World Surfing Games in Japan last September 2018.

When you are planning a surfing holiday, make sure to check out not only Siargao, the surfing capital of the Philippines, but also the other surfing destinations in the country as well.

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The Ultimate Guide to Surfing Philippines - Surf Atlas

Europe Portugal France Spain Canary Islands Wales England Norway Iceland Greece Italy Poland Asia Bali Sri Lanka Indonesia Philippines Japan India Thailand Maldives Central America Costa Rica Nicaragua El Salvador Panama North America USA Mexico Caribbean Africa Morocco South Africa Mozambique Oceania Australia New Zealand French Polynesia South America Colombia Chile Peru Search The Ultimate Guide to Surfing Philippines by Joseph Richard Francis Surfing Philippines is slowly but surely making waves, with the likes of Siargao and its hollow Cloud 9 leading the way. There’s plenty more than that, too, though… An introduction to surfing Philippines The Philippines have never managed to attain the heights of next-door Indonesia when it comes to surfing. That’s certainly not down to a lack of coastline – A mind-blowing 36,000km of the salt-washed stuff is on offer here, across 7,000+ islands. It’s more to do with the fact that this archipelago nation doesn’t get the same clockwork swell pulses from the southern latitudes; the ones responsible for Uluwatu and G-Land. That said, there is plenty of Pacific-facing land that gets epic fall and spring systems off the low-pressure typhoons, along with other places that harness the power of NW trade winds coming over the East China Sea. They’ve started making real waves on the Southeast Asia surf line up, too, especially palm-fringed Siargao, which now flaunts the tubular Cloud 9 break as a rival to any that Bali can muster on the Bukit. We’d say this: The Philippines is still very unchartered territory for surfers. There are only one or two places we’d consider to be worthy of a dedicated surf trip (basically Siargao, Baler, and San Juan in La Union). However, there’s an infectious vibe to the beaches, which are some of the most sugar-white we’ve ever seen, and bucket-list diving and snorkelling to be done if you want a mixed-adventure holiday. We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that! This guide is a part of our larger ultimate guide to surfing in Asia Surfing Philippines at a glance The good: Some stand-out breaks like Cloud 9 Stunning settings for surf Always warm The bad: Unpredictable swell seasons It’s hard to travel around here still What will I find in this guide to surfing Philippines An introduction to surfing Philippines The top surf destinations in PhilippinesOur pick of the best surf stays in PhilippinesWhen to surf in Philippines The top surf destinations in Philippines There are surf spots all over the Philippines, from Luzon in the north to the south-eastern islands around Siargao. Different spots pick up different swells, so always check that the place you pick is in season. Siargao Siargao is now firmly established as the top surfing destination in the whole of the Philippines. It owes its place to two breaks: Cloud 9, a heavy right-hand barrel over the reef on the southwest side of the island, and Quiksilver, a faster right that’s just next door. But there’s way more on offer, including a trio of small reef breaks and secondary-swell spots that are good for beginners, and some fun sandbar island breaks that you can only get to by boat. More than that, this island is simply stunning! Check out our complete guide to Siargao surfing Baler Baler is often called the birthplace of Philippine surfing because it was where a certain Francis Ford Coppola brought his crews to film the infamous wave scene with a wild Robert Duval back in 1967. As the locals looked on, they must have thought, man that looks fun. The rest is history and surfing has been happening here ever since. More and more points and beach breaks have been discovered in the area, and there’s a decent mix of waves for all levels. Check out our complete guide to surfing in Baler right now La Union La Union is called the Surfing Capital of the North. A couple of hours’ drive from Manila, it’s cut its teeth on an ultra-consistent beach break of crumbly stater waves and a peeling right point break that mimic the best of South Oz. Better surfers should try to time their trips for the winter season, when the strong NW trade winds can bring swells of 10 foot+. We’ve got a full guide to La Union surf Zambales If you can’t be bothered to make the 3.5-hour drive to San Juan in La Union to hit the points and beaches there, Zambales is a good alternative. So long as it’s the summer (May-Sept) then you can usually pick up small ankle-burner waves at the Crystal Beach break, and there’s also one proper swell-magnet of a spot that’s for experts. Check out our full guide to surfing in Zambales Dahican The all-level beach breaks of Pujada Bay in Dahican are pure fun. Getting very consistent swell through the Mayo Bay opening into the Pacific, there always seems to be something surfable on the shoreline. It’s not the best quality stuff, since the town lacks the reef fringing that you get in Siargao and others, but it’s chilled and unbusy. Lanuza The tiny little fishing village of Lanuza was already famous with water babies for its amazing underwater reefs, which are said to be some of the most biodiverse in the Philippines. Then folks realized there was a surf break here and bingo: A couple of surf camps now ply their trade in town too. The waves aren’t the quality you find in Siargao. Mostly, they are mushy reef-top stuff that goes left and right. There is one pretty good right hander, but we’re not sure its enough to tempt us on the 7-hour trek from Siargao. Our pick of the best surf stays in Philippines All of our three hotel picks for surfers in the Philippines are in Siargao. That’s because we think the island offers the best all-round experience and variety of breaks of anywhere in the country, and the surf camps and schools are second to none. Single Fin Siargao Single Fin Siargao reminds us of a stylish Balinese surf camp. It’s got the leafy garden with the plunge pool that you can return to after the dawn patrol. It’s got stylish interiors with their thatched roof and bamboo-walled bathrooms. But this surf camp is also very down to Earth, offering affordable hostel dorms for those on a budget and more luxurious doubles for those with some cash to splash. It’s also within easy reach of both of the major surf areas in what we’d say is the best destination for surfing in the Philippines: Siargao island. Check availability Mao Mao surf Walk through the palm-lined backstreets about five minutes from Cloud 9 and you’ll come to the quirky set of tropical cottages at Mao Mao Surf. They are done out like boho surf shacks, with indoor-outdoor bathrooms and arty touches throughout. We love the gardens and the lush grass areas where you can chill, plus the healthy eating from the on-site restaurant. We’d say it’s a great pick for surfing couples who value a touch more privacy than the local hostels have on offer. Check availability Hiraya Surf Hostel Another Siargao favorite, Hiraya Surf Hostel has a fine location jus t a stone’s throw form the Cloud 9 surf area, which has breaks for all levels. The vibes are the main draw here. Everyone’s mates from the get-go, you’ll meet new surf pals, and party in the evening. The on-site pool and the affordable nightly rates also add to the package big time. Check availability When to surf in Philippines There are two main surf seasons in the Philippines, hitting opposite ends of the archipelago nation at different times of the year. First, there’s the July-October typhoon months in the south-west. This is when Siagao goes off, with regular barrelling days on Cloud 9 et al, combined with good offshore winds to help the smaller reef breaks there hold shape. Second, you get the winter NW windswells that push through the Pacific. They hit a zenith between December and March, and bring the biggest waves of all to the northern island of Luzon, which means La Union and Zambales will be in their prime. With the Philippines this isn’t hard and fast stuff. The swells don’t switch between the monsoon and the dry seasons like clockwork like they do down in Bali. Lots of places get some swell all year, while others – Siargao notably – has unexpected peaks in late winter and through the spring. We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that! Share FacebookTwitterPinterestEmail Let us drop in on you Sign up to our emails. We'll send you the latest surf destination guides, surf gear reviews, and surf camp deals, all straight to that inbox of yours. * indicates required Email Address * Facebook Instagram Pinterest Youtube Email About us The Surf Atlas is written by surfers, for surfers. We're a team of ocean-loving people that includes writers in Australia, Wales, and Europe, each passionate about spending as much time in the saltwater as they can. Contact info Contact us at [email protected] The Surf Atlas is a trading name of Closeout Digital Ltd (Company number: 14335732) Let us drop in on you Sign up to our emails. We'll send you the latest surf destination guides, surf gear reviews, and surf camp deals, all straight to that inbox of yours. * indicates required Email Address * © 2019-2023 All rights reserved The Surf Atlas (The Surf Atlas is a trading name of Closeout Digital Ltd) Europe Portugal France Spain Canary Islands Wales England Norway Iceland Greece Italy Poland Asia Bali Sri Lanka Indonesia Philippines Japan India Thailand Maldives Central America Costa Rica Nicaragua El Salvador Panama North America USA Mexico Caribbean Africa Morocco South Africa Mozambique Oceania Australia New Zealand French Polynesia South America Colombia Chile Peru

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Surfing 101 – guide: Everything you need to know

ing 101 – guide: Everything you need to knowSkip to ContentTVEventsAthletesProductsWatch Video27 minSurfingAll the styles, superstars and sacred rules of surfing you need to knowFrom the unique terminology, to the athletes taking the sport forward, discover all you need to know about the world of surfing.By Andrew Lewis11 min readPublished on 11/21/2023 · 10:21 PM UTCSaveSavePart of this storyKai LennyFrom kiteboarding and windsurfing to foiling and big wave surfing, Hawaii's Kai Lenny does it all and at an expert level.United StatesCarissa MooreCarissa Moore has established herself as a powerhouse in surfing, a world champ who loves to help other young women achieve their dreams.United StatesCaroline MarksA multiple national champion and the youngest female to compete in a World Surf League event, Caroline Marks is surfing’s young phenom.United StatesJordy SmithA powerful regular-footer from Durban in South Africa, Jordy Smith is a regular winner on the World Surf League Championship Tour.South AfricaKanoa IgarashiJapanese surfer Kanoa Igarashi feels as natural on a board as he does on his own two feet. For him, the ocean is his home.JapanSurfing: the short versionPut simply, surfing is the act of riding a wave standing up on a surfboard. Using surfboards of varying lengths and construction – from fiberglass 'shortboards' that are less than 5ft [1.5m] long to hard foam 'longboards' that are 10ft [3m] and above. A surfer catches a wave just as it’s cresting, riding along the wave’s 'face' as it breaks toward the beach. Once upon a time, surfing was done only in oceans, but now the sport is practiced in other bodies of water, like the US Great Lakes, the Mediterranean Sea, and, as many are hoping is the case in Tokyo, in artificial wave pools.The origin story – the history of surfingSurfing has been dubbed 'the sport of kings,' thanks to its origins on the Hawaiian islands, where it was practiced as a recreational activity by the islands’ royalty and commoners alike. Historical research has found that other Pacific cultures – from Fiji to Peru – also surfed for fun on various crafts. But it was in Hawaii, in the early 20th Century, where surfing first sparked the global phenomenon that the sport became in the following decades. Visiting surfers from the US mainland and Australia took the sport home with them. In the US state of California and the Australian state of Victoria, surfers transformed the sport into a global, multibillion-dollar apparel industry. In 1976, a world surfing tour was formed – its most current iteration is the World Surf League. The sport’s governing body is the International Surfing Association, which today represents some 55 nations from around the world.RelatedNow's the time to learn everything there is to know …9 min readThis is why you should be pumped for BMX racing6 min readLet Daniel Dhers be your guide to what you need to …7 min readWhat are we watching, exactly? How does surfing work?This depends if you’re watching 'freesurfing' or competition surfing, shortboarding, longboarding, or tow surfing. Here’s the breakdown:FreesurfingThis just means surfing outside of competition. It may look like there are no rules of engagement when you look out into the waves at a crowd of freesurfers, however, the truth is there are many codes of conduct at work. The most sacred rule is the surfer who's closest to the crest of the breaking wave and who's on his or her feet first, has the right of way. And once that surfer is up and riding, all other surfers are responsible for staying out of their way. Oh, and if you’re out there and someone catches a really good one, it’s cool to give them a 'hoot' to let them know of their impressive ride.Competition surfingCompetition rules vary slightly between organizations, but all surf contests consist of divisions, broken down by age and gender, and timed heats in which between two and four surfers compete against each other, the winner being the surfer whose best two combined wave scores advances to the next round.ShortboardingAs mentioned above, shortboards are generally 6ft [1.8m] or under. They're the most popular type of surfboard in the sport today. When surfing a shortboard, a multitude of fast, quick maneuver is the goal.LongboardingSince longboards were the first type of surfboard, they're considered the sport’s 'classic' choice. Longboarding is all about style – smooth, relaxed control of the board as you move along the face of a wave is the goal.Tow surfingThis is the sport’s most recent addition and it’s reserved for only the best and bravest surfers in the world. In the early 2000s, surfers in Maui, Hawaii – led by Laird Hamilton – wanted to start riding waves that were above 50ft [15m] in height. The problem was that, more often than not, those waves move so fast that it's extremely difficult to catch them by paddling alone. Hamilton and his crew discovered that by using a waterski rope and an engine-powered zodiac, they could meet the giant waves’ speeds. They added straps to small, heavy shortboards that could absorb the shock of 50ft-plus waves and eventually switched over to using jet skis to tow each other. Today, tow surfing has evolved into a highly technical discipline that has allowed surfers to ride waves that previous generations only dreamed of riding.Freesurfing is exactly what it sounds like – just getting out there© Anthony Fox/Red Bull Content PoolPaddling out with friends to catch waves is what freesurfing is all about© Ryan Miller/Red Bull Content PoolFreesurfing also covers the burly world of big wave surfing© Fred Pompermayer/Red Bull Content PoolCompetition surfing is all about out-scoring your rivals with big moves© Jason Halayko/Red Bull Content PoolComps bring the pressure of head-to-head surfing in front of big crowds© Ryan Miller/Red Bull Content PoolShortboards are the perfect choice for aggressive surfing and contests© Ben Thouard/Red Bull Content PoolWant to rip turns like a pro? Shortboards are where it's at for that© International Surfing Association/Red Bull Content PoolLongboarding is graceful, peaceful and all about enjoying the ride© Kyler Vos/Red Bull Content PoolNo guesses where longboarding gets its name from… Boards don't get bigger© Marcelo Maragni/Red Bull Content PoolTowing allows surfers to catch big waves that move too fast for a paddle in© Tony Harrington/Red Bull Content PoolKai Lenny shows exactly why some waves need a tow in on this monster© Mattias Hammar/Red Bull Content PoolI want a go. What kit do I need for surfing?Not much, to be honest. All you really need is a bathing suit, some surf wax, a board and a 'leg rope' to keep you connected to your board. These days, most popular surfing beaches have surf schools, where instructors can give you a few lessons, or nearby surf shops where you can rent a board and have a go at it on your own. Just remember the sacred rule mentioned above!The tricktionary – what are surfing’s key tricks and techniques?Here are the maneuvers you’re going to want to understand inside-out:The barrelThis is surfing’s most prized maneuver – and one of its most difficult. A barrel forms as a wave’s crest pitches forward and over, forming a hollow chamber within the wave. The bigger the wave and more shallow the bottom, the larger the barrel becomes. It's extremely difficult to acquire the timing, balance and spatial awareness to duck into a barrel and emerge. But practice makes perfect!The bottom turnThis is surfing’s most fundamental maneuver. A bottom turn happens after a surfer has stood up and dropped down the face of the wave. Once at the trough, or bottom, of the wave, the surfer then pivots their momentum toward the open face of the wave. The speed of the drop is then transferred forward, propelling the surfer along the wave. Think of the bottom turn as the surfer’s gas pedal.The top turnIf you’re on a shortboard, the top turn is the next most fundamental maneuver after the bottom turn. As you’re riding along a wave, its crest, or 'lip,' seems to just be hanging there, taunting you to 'hit' it. So that’s what you should do! A good surfer will generate extra speed by dipping back down to the wave’s trough and engaging another bottom turn, which will then propel them vertically up the face of the wave. Once their board has made contact with the counterforce of the wave’s crest, the surfer will then redirect downward and back onto the wave’s open face. A solid connection with the lip will generate a huge spray of water – and trust us, there’s no better feeling than crushing a big top turn and showering your nearby friends with the spray.The floaterOnce a strictly functional maneuver, the floater has become an element of style in the surfer’s repertoire. Not all waves break along the beach perfectly, so when a surfer encounters a breaking section of the wave that's too long to bottom turn around, they must use their speed to ride up, onto and across the crest, or lip, reaching the other side of the breaking section. A well-executed floater can take on the appearance of anti-gravity, as the surfer is both perched on and moving across a breaking wave.The airIt wasn’t until the 1990s that surfers, confronted with sections of waves where once only a floater would be considered the logical next step, decided instead to channel their inner skateboarder or snowboarder and launch off the wave. The air began as a humble ollie off the lip. It soon evolved into an 'air reverse,' or 360 off the lip. Today, the amount of variations done by the world’s best surfers is dizzying, from inverted 540s to alley-oops to back-flips.Names to watch out forKai Lenny is known for charging some for the biggest waves on the planet© Mike Coots/Red Bull Content PoolHall of fame queen Carissa Moore is a five-time world champ© Ben Thouard/Red Bull Content PoolCaroline Marks is the youngest woman to compete in the World Surf League© David Clancy/Red Bull Content PoolKanoa Igarashi is putting Japan on top of the surfing world© Jason Halayko/Red Bull Content PoolSouth African Jordy Smith is one of the sport's most versatile surfers© Trevor Moran/Red Bull Content PoolAussie Mick Fanning is a true all-time great who can surf anything© Andrew Chisholm/Red Bull Content PoolLucas 'Chumbo' Chianca is a master of big waves and big aerials© Marcelo Maragni/Red Bull Content PoolHawaiian phenom Eli Hanneman is a world champ in the making© Lucas Gilman/Red Bull Content PoolBronson Meydi grew up at Indonesia's biggest waves and it really shows© Hamish Humphreys/Red Bull Content PoolMolly Picklum is in line to be the next great Australian star© Andrew Shield/Red Bull Content PoolJulian Wilson is quite simply one of the very best out there© Jason Halayko/Red Bull Content PoolKolohe Andino is many pro surfers' favourite surfer© Trevor Moran/Red Bull Content PoolRelatedKai Lenny's Big Wave, and Big Brother, AmbitionsHowever, Kai’s parents can attest to how being multifaceted can also work against you, as it did for Kai in the early days of his pro career. Nowadays, Kai and his brother Ridge are chasing big waves together—and big business. This episode charts the family unit behind one of the most dynamic surfers in the water and how the biggest wave has yet to come for Kai Lenny. Featured voices include Kai’s parents, Paula and Martin Lenny, and brother Ridge. From SUP to foiling, Kai Lenny is a Renaissance man in the surf game. Carissa Moore: The Ambassador of AlohaIn 2021, Carissa Moore became a household name by winning gold in the 2020 Summer Olympics—the inaugural year including surfing. In many ways, Carissa became synonymous with surfing and Hawaii. Currently ranked as the #1 female surfer in the world, Carissa’s ability can be traced to her father, Chris Moore, a surfing legend in his own right. But if you dig a little deeper, her prowess has been supported by her younger sister, Cayla, every step of the way. Featured voices include Carissa’s father and sister, Chris and Cayla respectively. "My dad has been one of, if not the greatest mentor in my life."Caroline Marks' Motivation: Sibling RivalrySometimes a sibling rivalry is the catalyst. That’s the case for Caroline Marks at least. Caroline preferred riding horses before becoming the youngest surfer to qualify in the WSL at age 15. What inspired the shift? Caroline realized that to impress her two older brothers, Luke and Zach, she’d have to beat them at their own game. Seven years in, and no longer a rookie, Caroline is considered somewhat of a veteran of pro surfing, but she’s only 21 years old. What’s next? Featured voices include Caroline’s parents, Darren and Sara; and brothers, Luke and Zach. Newly crowned world champion, Caroline Marks began surfing to be more like her brothers. Kai Lenny – the next-gen Laird Hamilton. Over the last two years, he's shocked the surfing world by riding some of the biggest waves on earth as if they were 5-footers, doing 360s and other airs on walls of water seven or eight stories high.Carissa Moore – The four-time world champion has pushed women’s surfing to new heights over the last decade. Combining power with style, Moore is one of the best surfers in the history of the sport, male or female.Caroline Marks – In 2018, at age 16, Marks became the youngest surfer to ever qualify for the Women’s World Surf League championship tour. She went on to win Rookie of the Year that season and, in 2019, took one of the two spots for women at the upcoming Tokyo event.Kanoa Igarashi – Igarashi is by far Japan’s most successful professional surfer. He is a consistent force on the World Surf League championship tour, where he won the 2019 Corona Bali Protected Pro.Jordy Smith – With multiple World Surf League championship tour wins under his belt, this South African possesses the rare combination of power and finesse when it comes to high-performance surfing. Whether the waves are 2ft or 10, Smith is always one to watch.Mick Fanning – The three-time world champion rose to fame as 'White Lightning,' for his mop of blonde hair and ability to seemingly go faster than anyone else on a wave. Now retired, Fanning has set his sights on obscure destinations where the surfing potential is promising.Lucas 'Chumbo' Chianca – Chumbo is a close second in line to Kai Lenny when it comes to surfing some of the biggest waves in the world. He's smooth and sturdy on his feet, yet has the ability to pull mind-blowing aerial maneuvers on waves that, not long ago, people believed could not be surfed in such a way.Eli Hanneman – Hawaii’s young star is absolutely unbelievable when it comes to airs. Hanneman's already turning heads and will be sooner than later on the world stage.Bronson Meydi – Born beside one of Indonesia’s most high-performance waves, Meydi is growing up to be a worldwide threat. His toolkit is wide-ranging, from big barrels to bigger airs and he’s only going to get better with age.Molly Picklum – The up-and-coming Australian competitor is not only lethal in small waves, but she’s getting better and better in bigger surf, too.Julian Wilson – Wilson has electrified the surfing world since he was a 'young gun' up against the very best surfers on the world’s best waves.Kolohe Andino – Like Julian Wilson, Andino has been in the surfing spotlight since he was a tiny toehead being pushed into the waves of his California homebreak by his dad and former world tour surfer, Dino.Where can I see more?Surf films to watch on Red Bull TVThis is your 1-stop home cinema for the best surf …6 min readMade InMade In joins up-and-coming local heroes of the planet’s best surf destinations.8 Seasons · 25 episodesNo ContestGet to know the venues, characters and spectacular waves of the WSL Championship Tour.4 Seasons · 25 episodesFilmsBefore there was a dedicated pro surfing world tour, there was a traveling cadre of surfers beaming their exploits to surf fans via film. Does The Endless Summer ring a bell? It has been surf films that have often been the biggest drivers of style and technical advancement in surfing – and that's still the case today, even with the huge amount of content available on the internet and on social media. Watch some of our favorite modern surf films.EventsPipe Masters: Professional surfing's most iconic event, held at the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. One of the most dangerous and challenging waves in the world, each year since the 1970s, Pipeline reveals those pros with the most guts, grit and talent.WSL Finals, Lower Trestles, California, USA: Southern California's 'Lowers' is considered one of the world's most high-performance waves. After a reshuffling of its annual world tour schedule, the World Surf League will now hold its final event of the season at Lowers, where the men's and women's World Titles will be decided in a single-day event at this world-renowned break.Surf Ranch Pro, Lemoore, California, USA: Not far from Lowers – but very far from the ocean – is the ranch town of Lemoore, California, home to Kelly Slater's groundbreaking wave pool. The Surf Ranch Pro is the World Surf League's only men's and women's tour stop at an artificial wave.Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge, Nazaré, Portugal: Home to the world's biggest waves, Nazaré has in recent years also played host to some of the most exciting big wave surfing events ever witnessed. This all-tow event brings together the world's bravest surfers for one day of 50ft-plus surfing.Triple Crown of Surfing: In addition to the Pipe Masters, the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, also hosts two other iconic pro surfing events at nearby Haleiwa and Sunset Beach. Together, this trio of events makes up the prestigious Triple Crown of Surfing. Winning the Triple Crown is one of the most coveted honors in pro surfing.Jaws Big Wave Championships: Alongside Nazaré in terms of the world's biggest wave is Maui, Hawaii's Pe'ahi, better known as Jaws. While the Nazaré event is all tow surfing, the Jaws event is all paddle, featuring the world's best male and female big wave surfers. Few pro surfing events are as thrilling to watch as the Jaws Championships.Red Bull Cape Fear: Always the wildcard, and always a fan favorite, the Red Bull Cape Fear is pro surfing's only big wave slab event. From Sydney to Tasmania, Cape Fear has featured some of the craziest competition in pro surfing.International Surfing Association World Surfing Games: While winning a World Surf League tour event is the highest individual honor, winning alongside your countrymen and women at the ISA World Surfing Games is the highest honor in teams surfing. Held each year at locations around the world, the ISA World Surfing Games feature teams from over 100 countries around the planet.Dive in to Red Bull Cape FearRed Bull Cape FearDue to the current long-range swell forecast, organisers have announced that Red Bull Cape Fear window will close on July 31 instead of its planned closing on August 15.March 3 – July 31, 2021No bluff: Red Bull Cape Fear window closes for 202113 min readBest wipeouts from Red Bull Cape Fear 2019Catch all the carnage that Shipstern Bluff had to offer.1:00 minSaveSaveSharePart of this storyKai LennyFrom kiteboarding and windsurfing to foiling and big wave surfing, Hawaii's Kai Lenny does it all and at an expert level.United StatesCarissa MooreCarissa Moore has established herself as a powerhouse in surfing, a world champ who loves to help other young women achieve their dreams.United StatesCaroline MarksA multiple national champion and the youngest female to compete in a World Surf League event, Caroline Marks is surfing’s young phenom.United StatesJordy SmithA powerful regular-footer from Durban in South Africa, Jordy Smith is a regular winner on the World Surf League Championship Tour.South AfricaKanoa IgarashiJapanese surfer Kanoa Igarashi feels as natural on a board as he does on his own two feet. For him, the ocean is his home.JapanSurfingSurfingWant more of this?SurfingWelcome to the Surf Hub, where you will find a rip-roaring collection of surf films, shows an

Surfing

ingEducationSign InMenuDonateARTICLEARTICLESurfingSurfingWherever waves break, surfers will ride them. The concept is simple—a breaking wave, a board and a brave athlete are all that is needed for the sport.Grades5 - 12+SubjectsEarth Science, Oceanography, Geography, Physical Geography‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌‌Loading ...Powered byArticleVocabularyWherever waves break, surfers will ride them.Surfing is usually associated with warm ocean beaches like those found in the U.S. states of Hawaii and California, and countries such as Australia. Surfers, however, do not limit themselves to warm weather or ocean waves. Surfers dust a foot of snow off their surfboards to chase waves off the coast of Antarctica. They trek through jungles to pristine beaches in Southeast Asia. They share the water with great white sharks in South Africa. They even ride the “silver dragon,” the giant tidal bore of China’s Qiantang River.Surfing is possible in all these places because the concept is simple. A breaking wave, a board and a brave athlete are all that is needed for the sport. (Sometimes, you don’t even need the board. This is called bodysurfing.)The concept is simple, but the practice is not. Surfers paddle or are towed in to the surf line, the area of open water where waves break as they near a coast. There, surfers sit on their boards and watch waves roll in to shore. Experienced surfers assess several different qualities in every wave. A wave must be strong enough to ride, but not dangerous enough to toss the surfer as it breaks. Surfers must be able to ride and safely exit the wave—not too close to shore or rocks. For river waves or those at artificial surfing facilities, surfers watch waves develop and jump right into the breaking wave.When surfers see a wave they can ride, they paddle quickly to catch the rising wave. Just as the wave breaks, the surfers jump from their bellies to their feet, crouching on their boards. Being able to stand up is the mark of an experienced surfer. Surfers ride the wave as it breaks toward the shore. As the wave falls and loses power, surfers can exit the wave by turning their boards back toward open water. Surfers can also exit by simply lowering themselves back to their boards and paddling back out. Of course, the force of the wave can end surfers’ rides by crashing on or over them. Surfers can be tossed above a wave or below it. Then the process of paddling out to the surf line begins again.Surfers must be aware of their physical skills as well as the environment. There are several different types of surfing (longboard, shortboard or big-wave, for instance). Each requires a different sets of skills. All surfers must be aware of weather patterns and topography, or surface features, of the shore. Experienced surfers are also familiar with bathymetry, the depth of the body of water. They must be strong swimmers. Surfers must also have an excellent sense of balance and be able to quickly react to changes in the environment. (For this reason, skateboarding is a common hobby among surfers—and surfing is a common hobby among skateboarders.)Men and women from all over the world practice surfing, and the surfing community shares a concern for the ocean environment.WavesSurfing depends on the science of hydrodynamics. Hydrodynamics is the study of water in motion. Oceanographers, ship captains, and engineers must all be familiar with hydrodynamics.Surfers seek out strong waves called swells. Swells are stable waves that form far away from the beach. Swells are formed by storm systems or other wind patterns.Two things determine the strength of a swell. First, swells are influenced by the strength of the winds that form them. Swells can help predict how strong a storm is as it approaches land. Most storm systems that form far out to sea never reach land with much strength. Sometimes, however, they do. These storms arrive as hurricanes or typhoons. Hours before a hurricane approaches shore, large and frequent swells signal its arrival. Surfers have been known to ignore hurricane warnings and stay out on stormy beaches because the swells are so frequent and strong.The second feature that influences swell strength is the wind’s fetch. Fetch is a geographic term that describes the amount of open water over which a wind has blown. The length of fetch is why ocean swells are usually much stronger than lake swells. In the open ocean, a wave's fetch can be thousands of kilometers.Weather forecasting can predict both elements of swells—offshore storm systems and the length of a wind’s fetch. Surfers consult these surf zone forecasts and can chase swells all over the world.Not all waves are swells, however. Most are smaller, more unpredictable waves, called wind waves. Swells are a type of wind wave (they are caused by wind), but the term usually refers to waves caused by wind with a shorter fetch. Wind waves have more chop than swells. Chop is the amount of short, irregular shifts in wave formation. Choppy water can be dangerous for surfers because the direction and strength of waves change from minute to minute.Breaking WavesBoth wind waves and swells must break (crash) for them to be of use to surfers. A calm day with no wind may be perfect for beachgoers, but makes for lousy surfing weather. Surfers need a reliable set of breaking waves, which requires moderate offshore wind.The most significant factor in how a wave develops is the underwater topography. Topography is the surface features of an area. Waves can be weakened or strengthened by topographical features of the seabed.Surf breaks are permanent features that cause waves to break in a predictable way. Reefs, sandbars, and large underwater boulders are examples of common surf breaks. Ocean trenches and submarine canyons can also determine how a wave breaks. Surfers must account for the presence of sea life, such as a kelp forest, a dense cluster of large seaweed. Seaweed can slow a breaking wave.A wave breaks when its base (the water beneath the surface) can no longer sustain its height. Near shore, waves break because water gets shallower as it nears a beach. The shallower a wave base, the more likely the wave is to break. The region of water where waves begin to break is called the surf line. Waves crash forward, their tips turning frothy and white. Sometimes, a breaking wave crashes into another wave. Other waves curl in on themselves, forming a tube near the crest, or top. Many surfers consider these tubular wave breaks the most desirable to surf.There are four major types of waves. Experienced surfers can ride all four types, although each has its own difficulties.Rolling waves (1) are the most familiar waves, and the type most surfers prefer. These waves break in a stable pattern. Rolling waves are usually a feature of a flat, sandy shoreline. The rolling waves at Hossegor, France, on the Bay of Biscay, can reach more than 6 meters (20 feet).Dumping waves (2) are more unpredictable. These waves are the result of an abrupt change in seabed topography. A steep underwater cliff or mountain can create dumping waves. These waves are usually limited to experienced surfers, as they are dangerous. Dumping waves can dump surfers far beneath the water’s surface with great force.Dumping waves can be the result of point breaks. Point breaks occur when a wave hits a point of rocky shore jutting into the ocean. Agadir, on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, boasts several strong point breaks.Dumping waves can also result from reef breaks. Reef breaks occur as waves pass over a coral or rocky reef. Reef breaks can be quite dangerous if the wave dumps the surfer on the reef. However, reef breaks provide some of the most rewarding waves. In Fiji, a reef break called Cloudbreak draws many experienced surfers.Surging waves (3) are the most dangerous. They are most often present on steep or rocky shores. Unlike rolling or dumping waves, surging waves do not break as they near the shore. They break only at the shore itself. Surging waves are dramatic as they crash against rocky cliffs, for instance. They have the ability to throw surfers against the rock or reef, as well as drag them back to the ocean.Surging waves are often produced by large storms. Surfers can ride waves ahead of storms or waves produced by storms hitting land far away. Surfers in western Florida, for instance, flocked to beaches as Hurricane Ike hit the western Gulf of Mexico in 2008.Standing waves (4) are also called stationary waves. These waves are constant and do not lose strength. The factors that contribute to these waves—the topography of the region, water flow and wind patterns—do not change. Examples of standing waves are river rapids and waves created by artificial wave machines, called wave pools. In landlocked areas, wave pools (often located at water parks) allow surfers to practice without having to travel. The first wave pool in the U.S. was established in 1969 in Tempe, Arizona.EquipmentThe most important piece of equipment a surfer has, or course, is a surfboard. Surfboards are usually hollow and weigh between 4 and 10 kilograms (9-22 pounds). They are usually constructed of manmade materials such as plastic and fiberglass. Most surfboards have slightly raised edges to help with balance. “Fins” beneath the rear of the board allow surfers greater control over their ride. Surfboards are divided into two models, longboards and shortboards. They are both about 5 centimeters (2 inches) thick and 48 centimeters (19 inches) wide. Their only major difference is length.A longboard is typically about 3 meters (9 feet) long. The nose, or front part of the surfboard, is rounded. Longboards can be slightly wider and thicker than shortboards, making them more stable and buoyant (able to stay afloat). This stability serves two functions. First, it allows surfers to catch smaller, weaker waves. This makes longboards excellent tools for beginning surfers. Second, stability allows experienced surfers to perform more advanced maneuvers, such as walking to the nose of the board and “hanging ten”—curling all ten toes over the side.Shortboards are about 2 meters (6 feet) long. They have a more pointed nose, and usually have more fins than longboards. Their size and shape make shortboards less buoyant than longboards, which means the waves shortboarders catch must be strong and steep. Shortboards are much easier to maneuver. They are more difficult to ride but are popular because they allow surfers greater control.Of course, there are as many types of surfboards as there are surfers: “funboards” (about 2.5 meters, or 8 feet, long), bridge the gap between longboards and shortboards; “fish” boards have a split tail end; “guns” are teardrop-shaped and are ideal for big-wave surfing.Both longboarders and shortboarders use other equipment. Water can make the board slippery. Surf wax is applied to dry surfboards to help surfers “stick.” Traction pads can be applied to the deck, or upper part of the board, for the same reason.Most surfers attach a leash between their surfboard and their ankle. The leash stops the surfboard from being lost when a surfer exits a wave. Leashes prevent boards from either washing onshore or popping up and injuring other surfers.Depending on surfing conditions (weather, wave type, and wave strength), surfers may outfit themselves with protective gear. Warm-water surfers wear modified wetsuits or swimsuits. Cold-water surfers can wear full-body wetsuits, including hoods, boots and gloves.Ways to SurfLongboarding and shortboarding require different skills. In addition, athletes can specialize in big-wave surfing, wakesurfing, or bodysurfing.Longboards allow surfers greater balance than any other kind of surfboard. Because of this balance and stability, longboarders can do what looks like gymnastics on their surfboards. Longboard surfers must be adept at “walking” on their boards. Besides “hanging ten,” they can also “hang heels,” where surfers turn around and put their heels over the nose of the surfboard. Daring athletes can even do handstands on their longboards.Shortboards allow for greater maneuverability. Shortboarders practice a variety of different turns. “Cutbacks” are turns that force the surfer back toward the breaking wave. Difficult “off the lip” turns take the surfer off the crest of the wave completely, into the air. Expert surfers can turn in mid-air.Big-wave surfing is just what it sounds like: surfing very, very big waves. Most surfers ride waves between 3 and 6 meters (9-20 feet) high. Big waves can be four times that high, more than 25 meters (82 feet) tall. These waves usually only form in the open ocean, so big-wave surfers cannot be found on lakes or rivers. Experienced big wave surfers practice “tow-in surfing,” where a boat or other watercraft tows surfers past the surf line to where enormous ocean swells break. When big-wave surfers catch a wave, they drop the towline, the boat or watercraft pulls away, and the surfers brave the mountain of water on their own.Big waves can be formed by underwater topography. The spectacular waves at Mavericks, near Half Moon Bay, California, are the result of an unusual formation on the Pacific Ocean seabed. Bathymetric maps completed in 2007 revealed that the area leading up to Mavericks is an upward slope or ramp. The waves coming up the ramp have more time to form and can draw on the calmer waters from troughs on either side of the ramp. The result is waves that regularly reach 9.15 meters (30 feet) high. Big wave surfers from all over the world travel to Northern California to surf Mavericks.Wakesurfing is like water skiing on a surfboard. Wakes are the wave trails left by boats or other heavy objects traveling quickly through the water. Surfers on very short boards trail behind boats and surf in the wakes they create.In the Gulf of Mexico near Galveston, Texas, huge ships called oil tankers are a common sight. Tankers deliver petroleum to and from facilities at the port at Galveston. Wakesurfers take advantage of these tankers. Boats trail the tankers, and surfers “tank surf” the wakes. The wakes are moderate in size—rarely more than 1.5 meters (5 feet) high—but they can be 1.5 kilometers (nearly a mile) long.Bodysurfing is the art and science of riding down a breaking wave without a board. Bodysurfers often wear specialized swim fins, or plastic flippers attached to their feet. They can use similar devices on their hands. Bodysurfers use their torso, or upper body, as the board. Approaching a wave, bodysurfers throw one arm straight above the water and use their other arm and legs to steer and stay buoyant in the water. Because the human body is not as large or buoyant as a surfboard, bodysurfers ride slower waves closer to shore. This does not, however, make bodysurfing easier or less dangerous than other forms of surfing.Surfing SafetyAll forms of surfing require the athlete to be an excellent swimmer. Boards can be broken or lost, and surfers need to be able to swim back to shore. Waves and currents are extremely strong, and drowning is a risk of the sport. Drowning can occur by being pulled under the water and by being dragged out to sea. Although surfboards are buoyant, they cannot be relied upon as flotation devices.Every surfer in every type of surfing will eventually experience a wipeout. A wipeout is the act of falling off a surfboard while riding a wave. Wipeouts are more common where waves are larger, stronger or more unpredictable. Waves can throw surfers to the seabed or back to the open ocean. Waves can also toss surfers onto underwater rocks or reefs. (This is what makes point breaks and reef breaks dangerous.)In big-wave surfing, wipeouts are even more dangerous. The tremendous force of the waves can force a surfer as much as 15 meters (51 feet) underwater. Worse, the churning waves can block light and make it difficult for the surfer to tell which way is up. Big-wave surfers need to react quickly to wipeouts.Even experienced big-wave surfers are at risk. Mark Foo, an American surfer from Hawaii, died at Mavericks in 1994. He wiped out in what was, for him, a moderate-size wave (6 meters, or 20 feet). After wiping out, his leash caught on the rocks below the surf, and Foo drowned. Foo was an outstanding athlete who helped popularize the sport of big-wave surfing, and his death was a shock to the community.Sea life can also pose a danger to surfers. Kelp is large seaweed that can grow 9 meters (30 feet) tall. Kelp forests grow from the ocean floor, and their tops rest on the ocean surface. Kelp poses many dangers to surfers. It can slow waves, tangle surfers, provide habitat for predators such as sharks, and obscure the view of the ocean floor. Surfers who cannot accurately judge the depth and topography of the ocean floor are in danger. This is why many surfers prefer to surf in fairly clear water.Animals in the surf can put surfers in danger. Bull sharks, tiger sharks, and great white sharks are probably the biggest risk. Surfers paddling on their boards can look like seals or sea turtles when viewed from below. Seals and turtles are both prey for sharks. Exploratory bites from sharks can injure or kill surfers. One of the most famous shark victims in surfing is Bethany Hamilton, an American surfer from Hawaii. She was attacked by a tiger shark in 2003 and lost her left arm. She returned to surfing as soon as she could.Surfing HistoryHamilton is a professional surfer, meaning she competes with other surfers for money and prizes. Professional surfing is a 20th century invention, although the sport is probably a thousand years old. Surfing was first described by European explorers of the South Pacific. Polynesians of the 18th century surfed the same spots—Hawaii, Fiji, Tahiti—that modern surfers enjoy. Just like today, both men and women participated in surfing. Unlike today, they surfed without wearing any clothes.The earliest surfboards were about the same length as modern surfboards, but much thinner. They were probably used by surfers who paddled or rode on their bellies. Early surfboards used for standing up were much heavier than modern surfboards. Made of solid wood (such as balsa or mahogany), these boards weighed up to 90 kilograms (almost 200 pounds). They were much larger than modern longboards, reaching up to 7 meters (23 feet) long. These giant surfboards, called olos or olo boards, were created for Hawaiian royalty.Surfing remained a hobby more than a sport until Olympic athlete Duke Kahanamoku popularized it in the early 1900s. Kahanamoku was a three-time gold medalist in swimming, competing at the 1912, 1920, and 1924 Olympics. A native Hawaiian, Kahanamoku was also an avid surfer. The governments of the U.S. and Australia invited him to demonstrate the sport, and it took hold in both places. Hawaii was not a U.S. state at the time, and Kahanamoku helped make the islands a popular tourist destination. He was the first person inducted into both the Swimming Hall of Fame and the Surfing Hall of Fame.Kahanamoku rode large, heavy surfboards made of solid wood. Inexpensive new materials like plastic and fiberglass were introduced to surfboard design in the 1940s, making surfing even more popular and widespread.In the 1970s and 1980s, surfers emerged as environmental activists. Surfers are among the first people who are aware of changes to aquatic ecosystems. They alert authorities to algal blooms in the Great Lakes in North America, for instance. Surfers are aware of coral bleaching, when corals lose their color. Some research suggests that sunscreen, which protects swimmers from the harmful rays of the sun, can contribute to coral bleaching. Surfers were among the first people to react to this possibility, and many responded by choosing to wear light wetsuits instead of swimsuits. This reduced the need for sunscreen.Groups like Surfer’s Environmental Alliance are concerned with pollution and other threats to beaches and the ocean. Beach pollution can restrict access to beaches and make it difficult for surfers to use trails to the beach. Ocean pollution can make surfing dangerous and unpleasant.Surfers have sued companies and governments to keep the coast and its waters clean. They have forced paper mills to limit runoff, oil companies to protect their undersea pipelines, and states to change the way sewage is treated.The Surfrider Foundation, founded by Southern California surfers, is a leader in environmental protection and conservation. These surfers made surfable waves recognized as a natural resource, just like minerals, trees and petroleum.Fast FactThe Endless SummerThats the name of the most famous surfing documentary ever made (1966). The film follows two surfers from Southern California in their trek around the world in search of the perfect wave. They go to Cape Town, South Africa; Tahiti; and Oahu, Hawaii, among other places. Other surfing documentaries include:The Endless Summer II (1994)Thicker than Water (2000)Step into Liquid (2003)Riding Giants (2004)Waveriders (2008)Fast FactName That BreakBanzai Pipeline (reef break in Oahu, Hawaii)Cold Hawaii (point break in Klitmoller, Denmark)G-Land (reef break in Bay of Grajagan, Indonesia)Gnaraloo (reef break in Western Australia)J-Bay (point break in South Africa)Fast FactSurf's UpA surfer-to-English dictionary:avalanche = large wave or set of waves that is breakingbarrel = hollow tube of a breaking wavedawn patrol = surfers who go out in the early morninggoofy foot = to surf with the left foot on the back of the board (regular foot puts the right foot in this position)grommet = young surferhang ten = to surf with all ten toes curled over the front of the boardpearl = putting the nose (front) of the board under water while riding a wave (usually leading to a wipeout)shaka = the gesture (fingers curled, thumb and pinky out) used by surfers for a greeting or recognitionwipeout = falling off your surfboard while riding a waveArticles & ProfilesNASA: The Science of SurfingWebsiteSurfrider FoundationSurf ReportCreditsMedia CreditsThe audio, illustrations, photos, and videos are credited beneath the media asset, except for promotional images, which generally link to another page that contains the media credit. The Rights Holder for media is the person or group credited.WritersKim RutledgeMelissa McDanielSantani TengHilary HallTara RamroopErin SproutJeff HuntDiane BoudreauHilary CostaIllustratorsMary Crooks, National Geographic SocietyTim GuntherEditorsJeannie Evers, Emdash Editing, Emdash EditingKara WestEducator ReviewerNancy WynneProducerNational Geographic SocietyotherLast UpdatedOctober 19, 2023User PermissionsFor information on user permissions, please read our Terms of Service. If you have questions about how to cite anything on our website in your project or classroom presentation, please contact your teacher. They will best know the preferred format. When you reach out to them, you will need the page title, URL, and the date you accessed the resource.MediaIf a media asset is downloadable, a download button appears in the corner of the media viewer. If no button appears, you cannot download or save the media.TextText on this page is printable and can be used according to our Terms of Service.InteractivesAny interactives on this page can only be played while you are visiting our website. You cannot download interactives.Related ResourcesNational Geographic Headquarters 1145 17th Street NW Washington, DC 20036ABOUTNational Geographic SocietyNatGeo.comNews and ImpactContact UsExploreOur ExplorersOur ProgramsEducationNat Geo LiveStorytellers CollectiveTraveling ExhibitionsJoin UsWays to GiveApply for a GrantCareersdonateget updatesConnectNational Geographic Society is a 501 (c)(3) organization. © 1996 - 2024 National Geographic Society. All rights reserved.Privacy Notice|Sustainability Policy|Terms of Service|Code of Eth

Guide to Surfing in Siargao: Cloud 9 and Other Surf Spots + Tips | Guide to the Philippines

e to Surfing in Siargao: Cloud 9 and Other Surf Spots + Tips | Guide to the PhilippinesVacation PackagesTours & TicketsTransfersHotels Car RentalTravel TipsFlights• • •Book your trip nowExplore the PhilippinesInformation about Islands & Beaches in PhilippinesOpen galleryGuide to Surfing in Siargao: Cloud 9 and Other Surf Spots + TipsBy Joshua BeridaVerified expertJump to chapterBest Time to Go Surfing in SiargaoHow to Get to SiargaoSurfing Spots in SiargaoFor Beginner SurfersFor Intermediate SurfersFor Advanced SurfersSurfing Lessons in SiargaoRenting a Surfboard, a Motorbike, or a Boat in Siargao

Surfing in Siargao is one of the best things you can do in the Philippines. Find the best surf spots appropriate for your level, where to join surfing camps, and what you can expect from surfing travel packages.

Siargao is known as the Surfing Capital of the Philippines. This small island in the southern part of the Philippines has been attracting surfers from around the world and those who want to go on a honeymoon in the Philippines for years.

Browse our Siargao tour packages for a hassle-free vacation

Check out our list of the best beachfront resorts in Siargao

The high number of both small and big reef breaks that can be found in the area, including the world-class waves in Cloud 9, have earned the island recognition as one of the best surfing destinations in the world.

If you're planning a surfing trip to Siargao, bookmark this page and take note of all the details you need for the ultimate experience at the Surfing Capital of the Philippines.

Best Time to Go Surfing in Siargao

Surfing in Siargao can be done year-round, but the most popular surfing spot in the Philippines, Cloud 9, is best visited from September to November or during the rainy season in the Philippines; these months provide waves that go as high as 12 feet in some places with others at 8 feet.

Generally, the peak swell season in General Luna (where Cloud 9 is) is from May to November, while it's from November to April in the municipality of Pilar, though expect some heavy rainfall at this time, as well.

Aside from surfing, check out other rainy season activities in the Philippines

Timing is important in surfing. You'll definitely need an eye for where the swells will come from. If you are inexperienced, a guide can help you. There are several surf resorts in Siargao that can help you decide which break to head to when you arrive.

It is possible to surf during the lean months of summer. However, only beginners will enjoy this season because the swells are manageable for learning how to balance and get the timing right.

Intermediate and advanced surfers are better off doing other activities, such as island hopping in Naked, Daku and Guyam Islands, or going to the Sohoton National Park. Another good time to visit Siargao is when there are surfing competitions.

Check other tourist spots to visit and activities to do in Siargao aside from surfing

Siargao National Surfing Cup

This competition provides local surfers a venue to showcase their talent and move up the national rankings. 2018's event took place on September 24-27, the next one would probably be on similar dates.

Siargao Cloud 9 Surfing Cup

This event made a comeback in 2018. It has a QS3000 rating which means that the world's best surfers joined to earn points to improve their rankings and get the chance to participate in other competitions around the world. Expect the competition to take place at the same time in the future.

If you're still a beginner, it would be quite an experience to attend a surfing competition attended by competitive surfers.

See our popular Siargao Tours and ActivitiesPrivate Siargao Tri Island Hopping Tour with Hotel Transfers | Guyam, Naked, Daku IslandsSiargao Airport to/from Any Hotel in General Luna | Private TransfersSiargao Land Tour to Magpupungko Rock Pools, Cloud 9, Coconut Mountain View & More with TransfersSee all tours

How to Get to Siargao

Surfing in Siargao is now more accessible because of direct flights from Manila and Cebu via Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific Air, and SkyJet.

You can also go via Surigao City (note that Siargao and Surigao are two different places!) and combine your island trip with a longer trip in Mindanao.

From Surigao City, you can board a boat or ferry bound for Siargao (Dapa Port). Travel time is 2 hours or more, depending on the type of ferry you choose. Dapa Port is far from General Luna, so make sure to arrange transport beforehand with your resort. There are tricycles there as well.

Surfing Spots in Siargao

Make the most of your Siargao surfing experience by riding the waves of different surfing spots depending on your surfing experience.

For Beginner Surfers

Guiuan

This spot is around 15-20 minutes from General Luna. Its accessibility makes it another hotspot for both experienced and beginner surfers. You'll easily find surf shops that provide lessons and rent boards here as most who want to learn head here.

Jacking Horse

If you're a beginner and just learning how to surf, this is an ideal spot. Jacking Horse got its moniker because of the way the waves jack up and down. The waves are manageable for those trying to balance and get their timing right.

Leave Cloud 9 to the pros and advanced surfers until you improve your skills and gain experience here. Go during high tide so that you can ride the waves and feel the adrenaline rush of finally not wiping out after several attempts.

Quicksilver

The waves here attract beginners who are learning the ropes of this sport. It's close to Cloud 9 and the best spot for beginners to practice. The waves are more forgiving as it approaches the shore, so you can learn how to balance on your board and get the timing right on when to get up as the waves begin to barrel.

The break increases in difficulty to a more experienced level once monsoon season settles and when you paddle further away from the beach.

Book a Siargao surfing tour package

Explore other surfing destinations in the Philippines! Read our article on the Top Surfing Spots in the Philippines

Insider tipSee our popular Siargao Island Hopping ToursLearn more

For Intermediate Surfers

Bumee

If you're a beginner looking for a new challenge, it's time to try an intermediate swell, one of which is Bumee. Don't expect easy riding like the first few times you surfed. You'll do a lot of things on your own here. Stay focused and relax, with the reps and hours you put in before going for this break enables you to find the right timing and balance to successfully surf.

Cemetery

Sometimes also known as Pesangan, this surf spot in General Luna got its name because of its location near a cemetery. The breaks here break in both directions, right and left. Get some reps and experience here before leveling up to the more difficult waves in Siargao.

Daku Reef

Daku Island off the coast of General Luna has some breaks for surfers looking for waves to ride. You'll need to be intermediate level to enjoy surfing here as the waves can get strong during peak season. It can be a good intro to reef surfing. To avoid the crowd, go early. It's accessible via a 10-minute boat ride.

Pansukian Reef

When the wind is right, the conditions will create a wave that is both long and fast, which is ideal for adrenaline junkies. The swells are at about 6 feet on average, this is all right for both advanced and intermediate level surfers.

Pilar

This break takes some time to reach, approximately an hour and a half by boat from General Luna. Those that venture out will enjoy fewer people and good waves to ride. The swells require at least an intermediate skill level and experience. The breaks of the reef come from the left and provide an adrenaline rush once you ride them.

Salvacion

Salvacion is another surfing spot for those with intermediate skills and experience. The swells are strong and barreling for surfers eager to get better quickly.

Stimpy's

This Siargao surfing spot is for advanced surfers with experience and skill. You will need to rent a boat to take you where the swells are. The ride takes about 10 minutes.

The ideal time to go to Stimpy's is just around low tide. Get away from the crowds and ride the waves here. The exhilarating feeling you get after is worth the effort.

For Advanced Surfers

Cloud 9

When you mention surfing in the Philippines, this is what usually comes to mind. Surfers from all over the world go to Cloud 9 to test their skills and push their limits. International surf competitions are often held in Cloud 9, as it is ranked as having one of the top ten waves worldwide.

Cloud 9 is for competitive level enthusiasts. Its excellent right-hand waves are huge and break over shallow reef. The best months to surf Cloud 9 are from September to November. Its popularity has made it a hot spot for beginners to watch the pros, as this is exclusively for advanced surfers.

Pacifico

Advanced surfers will enjoy riding the swells here. You'll find long, hollow left breaks here over a rocky reef, which will challenge you and prepare you for Cloud 9. It's around an hour's motorbike ride from General Luna.

Tuason's Point

This surfing destination is quite near its more famous counterpart Cloud 9. Its proximity to the latter has attracted crowds recently. The tubing that forms from the break's left side is reminiscent of Cloud 9.

If you're an expert surfer, you can ride the waves here, improve your skill and get ready for an upcoming competition. Intermediate level surfers can find manageable swells a bit further out of Tuason's. Watch out for the rocks as you paddle towards and out of the break. Avoid at low tide as the shallow places can be dangerous.

See our 3D2N Siargao tour package to Bayud Boutique Resort

Book a Britania Group of Islands tour

Check out this Tinuy-an Falls to Enchanted River Surigao del Sur tour

Surfing in Siargao is a must if you want to try something new or improve at the sport you're passionate about. These are some of the spots where you can try this activity; there are others waiting to be discovered.

Surfing Lessons in Siargao

If you're new to surfing, or even if you haven't tried it yet, several Siargao resorts offer surf lessons and surf camps ranging from 1 day to 7 or 8 days. Beginner surf camps last a week or so and include all accommodation, airport transfers, transport to surf spots, one to two meals a day, surf rental equipment, and of course, instruction.

So if you’ve never surfed before or still want a bit of a helping hand from an instructor tackling your first reef breaks, this is a great option. Some resorts that offer this in General Luna include Buddha's Surf Resort and Viento del Mar.

Another surf camp is geared for intermediate to advanced surfers who want to be guided to the best breaks in Siargao. Everything might be included, e.g., airport transfers, transport to surf spots, expert local guide, and surf equipment rental.

However, food and accommodation may not be included in the package so better check first. One resort that offers this is Kermit Siargao.

It is also possible to get one-off surf lessons without having to book a surf-and-stay package. Private lessons include a one-on-one tutorial, use of the board, and transport to the surf spot.

Renting a Surfboard, a Motorbike, or a Boat in Siargao

While some surfers travel with their surfboards, it can be impractical if Siargao is not your only destination. A better option is to just rent a surfboard from the many schools and shops in Siargao. It's cheaper if you rent it for a longer time, so just ask around.

Book multi-city packages

Siargao to Cebu Philippine tour packages

1-week Coron to Cebu to Siargao Philippines island hopping package

10-day Davao to Cebu to Siargao Philippines tour package

As the surf breaks are on different parts of the island, it's easier to move around by motorbike. Don't forget to get one with a board rack. Some spots are too far away to paddle to, so you might need a boat, too. Look for a boatman to take you.

Book a Siargao motorcycle rental

Start planning your Siargao surfing trip! If you want a hassle-free travel experience of Siargao Island, check out the best resorts in Siargao and look into Siargao tours and activities that you can add to your itinerary. Check out other reasons why you should visit the Philippines

Find flights to the Philippines

Book Siargao flights:

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2024 CT Rankings

Picklum17,800

Florence12,545

Simmers14,745

Robinson11,330

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Johnson13,885

Hennessy12,170

Smith10,830

Marks10,830

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Lexus Pipe Pro

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Mar 26 - Apr 5Event 04

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SHISEIDO Tahiti Pro

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The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

The Veterans Cancel Next Gen Plans, Finals Day Back In Their Hands - The Catch Up

A short-lived morning at Supertubos showed the CT veterans reinstate their authority across the break. Tyler Wright tapped into dominant form as she locks in Finals Day for her 100th career CT event, 2x event victor Tatiana Weston-Webb channeled CT experience over a scrappy Bettylou Sakura Johnson, a buzzer-beater finish from Lakey Peterson got one up on reigning World Champ solidified her Semifinal spot, and Johanne Defay locking in the last remaining Semifinal spot with decision at the buzzer.

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

HIGHLIGHTS Day 4 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal

A short day of competition at Supertubos witnessed the CT elite reestablish themselves with authority over the surging next generation of contenders. Experience proved the difference maker with Quarterfinals in the books and world-class Semifinal matchups on deck.

The Lineup

NFL Star Raheem Mostert Talks Breaking Records For The Miami Dolphins Plus A Lifetime of Surfing

NFL star running back for the Miami Dolphins, Raheem Mostert, joins us on the pod. Raheem and Dave discuss life in the offseason, his plans to spend more time with his family, and relish the "true dad" moments with his kids. Raheem reflects on his journey as an undrafted rookie to a record-breaking seasoned pro in his tenth year in the league. He talks about growing up surfing in the shark-infested waters of New Smyrna Beach, being offered a contract by Billabong as a young grom, and deferring his career as a pro surfer to be the first in his family to graduate from college and pursue a career in the NFL. Raheem and Dave discuss the intersection of surfing and football, drawing parallels between the two pursuits that demand balance and commitment. Finally, Raheem answers Instagram questions, shares his funniest Mike McDaniels story, and reveals the toughest linebacker he's faced before blitzing the Lightning Round.

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The Rankings Are Rattled As Medina Is Back! Plus European Icons Throw Down Buzzer-Beaters - Post Show

Supertubos provided the goods for a blistering day of competition to dwindle the men's field to just eight. A resurgence from the Brazilian Storm looked to be on its way before being silenced once again by Ethan Ewing's world-class rail game, taking an in-form Italo Ferreira out of another event victory.

The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Yellow Jersey John Eliminated, Ewing Stays On Point, Colapinto Brothers Roll Into Finals Day - Catch Up

The MEO Rip Curl Pro presented by Corona returned to the famed Supertubos and a jaw-dropping day of action followed to provide Portugal's fans what the world's best are capable of. Icons of the sport John John Florence, Gabriel Medina, Italo Ferreira and beyond reminded us of their capabilities as the Brazilian Storm began to thunder back to life in the Round of 32 before only Medina thrived in the Round of 16 clashes. Jake Marshall and Crosby Colapinto are set to battle it out in the Quarterfinals alongside the silent assassin Ethan Ewing, Morocco's Ramzi Boukhaim, and more who have their eyes set on a major result ahead of the Mid-season Cut pressure looming. It's all set to go down on Finals Day.

QS 5000

Full Coverage: Day 2 of the Burton Automotive Pro & Newcastle Racecourse Women's Pro

Catch up on all the news from Day 2 of competition at Merewether Beach as the best Asia and Australia/Oceania region Surfers battle it out in the final Qualifying Series event of the 2023/2024 season.

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HIGHLIGHTS Day 3 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2024

Massive airs, rifling barrels, and Finals Day spots on the line. This is why we come to Supertubos. Day 3 was a massive marathon day as we saw a rattling of the rankings, the return of Brazilian icon Gabriel Medina, California bounce back, and European Favorites all lock in Finals Day. Check out all the highlights here.

Sound Waves

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Behind The Scenes With Gabriel Medina In Portugal

Follow Medina and his camp behind the scenes during an especially critical time in the 2019 World Title Race.

As Told By

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Surf Forecasting In Portugal - As Told By Miguel Fortes | Yeti x WSL

Miguel Fortes breaks down his role in forecasting surf conditions along the Portuguese coastline. Miguel shares the pressures and difficulties of decision-making in his role and reflects on the growing surfing community in Portugal, highlighting its generational evolution and the values it instills; respect, sharing, and connection with nature.

Board Breakdown

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Britt Merrick Of Channel Islands Breaks Down Lakey Peterson's Portugal Blade

Channel Islands' Britt Merrick and Lakey Peterson break down what it takes for a board to perform in Portugal. Catch all the action as Lakey hits the water in Peniche.

Relive History

Inside Pro Surfing: Lexus Pipe Pro 2024

Welcome to the starting line. The champs are back, the rookies have arrived, and the entire surf universe turns its eyes to the place where it all began: Pipeline. John John Florence, Molly Picklum, and the rest of the world's best are ready to fire the tour back up. Are you?

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Celebrate & honor the women who inspire you worldwide today.

The Pulse

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Ferreira Goes Mad On Day 3, Ramzi Boukhiam Delivers Against O'Leary, Yago Unlocks Round of 16 | The Pulse

Check all the latest action on Day 3 as the show continues to roll. Airs, barrels, and more.

The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

The Veterans Cancel Next Gen Plans, Finals Day Back In Their Hands - The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

HIGHLIGHTS Day 4 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal

The Lineup

NFL Star Raheem Mostert Talks Breaking Records For The Miami Dolphins Plus A Lifetime of Surfing

Post Show

The Rankings Are Rattled As Medina Is Back! Plus European Icons Throw Down Buzzer-Beaters - Post Show

The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Yellow Jersey John Eliminated, Ewing Stays On Point, Colapinto Brothers Roll Into Finals Day - Catch Up

QS 5000

Full Coverage: Day 2 of the Burton Automotive Pro & Newcastle Racecourse Women's Pro

Highlights

HIGHLIGHTS Day 3 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2024

Sound Waves

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Behind The Scenes With Gabriel Medina In Portugal

As Told By

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Surf Forecasting In Portugal - As Told By Miguel Fortes | Yeti x WSL

Board Breakdown

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Britt Merrick Of Channel Islands Breaks Down Lakey Peterson's Portugal Blade

Relive History

Inside Pro Surfing: Lexus Pipe Pro 2024

IWD 2024

To The Women Who Inspire Us, Happy International Women's Day!

The Pulse

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Ferreira Goes Mad On Day 3, Ramzi Boukhiam Delivers Against O'Leary, Yago Unlocks Round of 16 | The Pulse

The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

The Veterans Cancel Next Gen Plans, Finals Day Back In Their Hands - The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

HIGHLIGHTS Day 4 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal

The Lineup

NFL Star Raheem Mostert Talks Breaking Records For The Miami Dolphins Plus A Lifetime of Surfing

Post Show

The Rankings Are Rattled As Medina Is Back! Plus European Icons Throw Down Buzzer-Beaters - Post Show

The Catch Up

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Yellow Jersey John Eliminated, Ewing Stays On Point, Colapinto Brothers Roll Into Finals Day - Catch Up

QS 5000

Full Coverage: Day 2 of the Burton Automotive Pro & Newcastle Racecourse Women's Pro

Highlights

HIGHLIGHTS Day 3 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2024

Sound Waves

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Behind The Scenes With Gabriel Medina In Portugal

As Told By

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal · Peniche, Portugal

Surf Forecasting In Portugal - As Told By Miguel Fortes | Yeti x WSL

Watch All

MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal presented by Corona - Watch Live Mar 6-16

- WSL

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

HIGHLIGHTS Day 4 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal

A short day of competition at Supertubos witnessed the CT elite reestablish themselves with authority over the surging next generation of

- WSL

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

The Veterans Cancel Next Gen Plans, Finals Day Back In Their Hands - The Catch Up

A short-lived morning at Supertubos showed the CT veterans reinstate their authority across the break. Tyler Wright tapped into dominant

- WSL

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

Quarterfinals2x World Champ Tyler Wright Locks In First Semifinal of '24 Season At 100th CT Career Event

On a cold start to the morning here in Portugal, Tyler continued to keep the heat going in the first Quarterfinal matchup, laying down a

- WSL

Monday, March 11, 2024

The Rankings Are Rattled As Medina Is Back! Plus European Icons Throw Down Buzzer-Beaters - Post Show

Supertubos provided the goods for a blistering day of competition to dwindle the men's field to just eight. A resurgence from the Brazilian

- WSL

Monday, March 11, 2024

Yellow Jersey John Eliminated, Ewing Stays On Point, Colapinto Brothers Roll Into Finals Day - Catch Up

The MEO Rip Curl Pro presented by Corona returned to the famed Supertubos and a jaw-dropping day of action followed to provide Portugal's

- WSL

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

Quarterfinals'22 Event Champ Weston-Webb Flexes CT Veteran Knowledge Over Next-Gen, Secures Semis

Tatiana Weston-Webb controls her Quarterfinal matchup with Bettylou Sakura Johnson, as CT veteran heat knowledge shines through in the

- WSL

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

QuarterfinalsLakey Peterson Gets One Back On The Reigning World Champ

In a rematch of the the 2019 Final, Lakey Peterson was able to take one back over reigning World Champ and sparring partner Caroline Marks

- WSL

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

QuarterfinalsJohanne Defay Holds Strong, Finalizes Veteran CT Semifinal Matchups

Johanne Defay bests Luana Silva with CT veteran gusto, locked in the Semifinals.

- WSL

Monday, March 11, 2024

Round of 16Gabriel Medina Turns Up The Volume Heading Into Finals Day

Brazilian 3x World Champ Gabriel Medina had his fangs out and absolutely destoryed an inform Jack Robinson. Its safe to say Medina has

- WSL

Monday, March 11, 2024

HIGHLIGHTS Day 3 // MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal 2024

Massive airs, rifling barrels, and Finals Day spots on the line. This is why we come to Supertubos. Day 3 was a massive marathon day as we

- WSL

Monday, March 11, 2024

Round of 16Leonardo Fioravanti Buzzer-Beater Barrel Eliminates Igarashi

Leonardo Fioravanti and Kanoa Igarashi have pushed each other since pre-teens and continue to bring out the best in one another with

- WSL

Monday, March 11, 2024

Round of 16Griffin Colapinto Keeps It Rolling Locks A Finals Day w/ Kid Brother Crosby

Griffin Colapinto is locked into Finals Day here in Portugal after going excellent over Imaikalani deVault. Griffin's little brother,

Watch All

Hurley Pro Sunset Beach 2024

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Next Generation Continue Charge, Big Rankings Shake Ups At Hurley Pro Sunset Beach - THE CATCH UP

We're calling it, the Dream Tour is back with the North Shore delivering iconic conditions to determine event victors for the 2024 season

- WSL

Thursday, February 22, 2024

Top 5 Moments - Hurley Pro Sunset Beach

Featuring heavy wipeouts and cleanup sets, John John Florence's Sunset Beach masterclass, Molly Picklum's all-time closeout jam in her

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Molly Picklum Advances To Finals w/ Jaw-Dropping 9.67 Single Manuever Wave Score

The reigning Sunset Beach victor, Molly Picklum dropped jaws with a 1-turn snap to free-fall, rewarded with a 9.67, sealing her fate to

- WSL

Thursday, February 22, 2024

EVERY EXCELLENT WAVE Hurley Pro Sunset Beach 2024

That's all the 8's and up featuring Jack Robinson, Molly Picklum, Matthew McGillivray, Jordy Smith, Miguel Pupo, Griffin Colapinto, Jacob

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

HIGHLIGHTS Finals Day // Hurley Pro Sunset Beach 2024

North Shore, take a bow and mahalo for a dream start to the 2024 CT season! Iconic conditions at Sunset Beach pushed the world's best to

- WSL

Thursday, February 22, 2024

Robinson, Picklum Victorious As Hurley Pro Sunset Beach Decides New World No. 1s \\ 805 Post Show

New levels of performances closed out the North Shore start to 2024 with historic showings and all-time conditions at Sunset Beach,

- WSL / Brent Bielmann

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Jack Robinson Reminds World's Best Of Heavy Water Super Powers, Takes Win At Sunset Beach

In near-perfect fashion, Jack Robinson left no doubt that he was meant to earn a Sunset Beach CT title. Robinson's insane double-barrel

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Jack Robinson Right At Home When It Gets Gnarly, Sunset Screamer Sends Him To Semifinals

A battle of the upper echelon unfolded between Jack Robinson and Italo Ferreira taking on pumping conditions and the two didn't disappoint.

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Bettylou Sakura Johnson's Statements Are Getting Louder, Storms Into Semifinals

The known CT emerging threat Bettylou Sakura Johnson continues to harness the home mana in excellent form, posting an 8.17, and moves into

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Ryan Callinan Claims All-Aussie Showdown, Eyes Maiden CT Win

A backhand clinic by Ryan Callinan earned a massive Quarterfinal victory over fellow Australian standout Liam O'Brien and moves into the

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

"Grom's In Her Place, She's Through To The Semis" - Molly Picklum Eliminates Mentor

The next generation continues to lead the 2024 charge with Molly Picklum overtaking the 12-year CT competitor Lakey Peterson in their

- WSL

Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Jordy Smith Defeats John John Florence In Quarterfinal Juggernaut Clash

A heavyweight duel between 2x World Champion John John Florence and perennial World Title threat Jordy Smith provided fireworks with Smith

Watch All

Lost Tapes: Kelly Slater

- WSL

Sunday, June 12, 2022

Episode 1A New Year - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

In the premiere episode, presented by Outerknown, Kelly Slater prepares for the start of the 2019 WSL Championship Tour and the hunt for

- WSL

Sunday, June 19, 2022

Episode 2The Storm - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

In episode 2, presented by Outerknown, Kelly Slater heads to the next event at Bells Beach early to refocus after a disappointing start. In

- WSL

Sunday, June 26, 2022

Episode 3The Dream Tour - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

In Bali, Kelly is dealt a blow when he gets tough news regarding his longtime friend and competitor Sunny Garcia. When competition begins,

- WSL

Sunday, July 3, 2022

Episode 4Out of The Box - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

Before the next Championship Tour stop in Margaret River, Australia, Kelly takes some time to explore all the natural attractions that the

- WSL

Thursday, July 7, 2022

Episode 5Pure Passion - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

In Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, Kelly experiences the biggest crowds and most passionate fans on tour. As he battles through another superheat

- WSL

Sunday, July 17, 2022

Episode 6Seize The Bay - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

In Jeffreys Bay, South Africa, Kelly fights to clear his mind and focus on the fun of surfing. That challenge proves tougher than expected

- WSL

Sunday, July 24, 2022

Episode 7End Of The Road - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

Kelly heads to Teahupoo, Tahiti, a place he's won five events at in his legendary career. Though he reconnects with the amazing people, the

- WSL

Friday, July 29, 2022

Episode 8Golden Opportunity - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

Kelly returns to Miyazaki, Japan for the first time since 1990 to compete with Team USA for a spot in the upcoming Olympics. The uncrowded

- WSL

Sunday, August 7, 2022

Episode 9The Perfect Wave - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

The next Championship Tour event is in the Lemoore, California at the Surf Ranch, a man-made wave Kelly designed.

- WSL

Sunday, August 14, 2022

Episode 10The Old World - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

When the tour moves on to Europe, Kelly reconnects with one of his oldest and closest friends.

- WSL

Sunday, August 21, 2022

Episode 11Curtain Call - Lost Tapes | Kelly Slater

In the finale, Kelly arrives on the North Shore of Oahu earlier than usual and decides to surf the Triple Crown.

Watch All

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Mar 6 - 10

QS 3,000

Completed

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Santa Catarina, Brazil

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QS 1,000

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Florida, United States

Mar 11 - 17

QS 5,000

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Burton Automotive Pro & Newcastle Racecourse Women's Pro

NSW, Australia

Mar 14 - 17

QS 1,000

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Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil

Mar 16 - 17

QS 1,000

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Western Cape, South Africa

Mar 18 - 24

QS 5,000

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Presented By Diamonds International

Bathsheba, Barbados

Mar 23 - 24

QS 1,000

SA Open of Surfing

Eastern Cape, South Africa

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Caroline Marks

Tahiti Bound

Caroline Marks of the United States has secured preliminary qualification to represent the United States at the 2024 Olympics.

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Surfing: Olympic history, rules, latest updates and upcoming events for the Olympic sport

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History of

Surfing

What is Surfing?

Surfing is a water sport where an athlete performs manoeuvres on a wave while standing on a board.

By whom, where and when was Surfing invented?

Surfing is believed to have been practised by fishermen in ancient times in Peru and later, in around 400 AD, across Polynesia.

James King, who served under explorer Captain James Cook, wrote about surfing in Hawaii after Cook's death in 1779.

Lifeguard George Freeth, born in Hawaii but based in California, became one of the pioneers of modern surfing by cutting a traditional 5m hardwood board to create a more manageable vessel.

He and Duke Kahanamoku, a three-time Olympic swimming champion, helped spread the sport across the United States with Kahanamoku taking it to Australia and advocating the sport be added to the Olympic Games.

A century later, his wish was granted.

What are the rules of Surfing?

In competitive surfing, between two and four athletes contest a heat where they have between 20 and 30 minutes to catch the best waves possible.

Observing usual surfing etiquette, only one surfer can ride a wave at a time with the one closest to the peak having right of way.

The athletes are marked out of 10 for each wave they ride by a panel of judges with only the two best rides - based on the difficulty, variety and type of manoeuvres as well as their power, speed and flow between manoeuvres - counting for each surfer.

Surfing and the Olympics

Surfing made its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020 in 2021 with a men's and women's competition each featuring 20 athletes. The athletes used shortboards as per most international competitions.

Brazil's Italo Ferreira became the sport's first Olympic champion, beating home favourite Kanoa Igarashi to take gold.

Then Carissa Moore of the United States - hailing from Hawaii - took women's gold ahead of South Africa's Bianca Buitendag.

Best Surfers to watch

The United States and Australia have long been the powerhouse nations in surfing although Brazilian male surfers have proven formidable in recent years.

As well as reigning Olympic champion Ferreira, Brazil boasts the likes of three-time world champion Gabriel Medina, Felipe Toledo and Joao Chianca. But with a absolute maximum of three spots per nation at Paris 2024, there is intense competition for places.

Hawaii's John John Florence will hope to make a second Games, while 11-time world champion Kelly Slater - who will be 52 when Paris comes around - hopes to become an Olympian in what would be his last competition.

Stephanie Gilmore has eight world titles to her name although she faces competition for an Australian Olympic berth from the likes of two-time world champion Tyler Wright and rising star Molly Picklum.

Surfing Competition Rules at Paris 2024

There will be 24 men and 24 women competing in surfing at Paris 2024 with Teahupo'o Beach in Tahiti, French Polynesia the venue.

There is a maximum of two surfers per event per nation although Kanoa Igarashi's victory at the 2022 ISA World Surfing Games took Japan up to three men's spots. Similarly, Kirra Pinkerton won the women's final to earn an extra women's berth for the United States. Extra berths are also available at the 2024 ISA World Surfing Games.

The first round of competition is non-elimination with the top surfers going directly to round three while the rest go into round two where athletes will be eliminated.

From round three onwards, it is head-to-head elimination all the way through to the final.

How to qualify for Surfing at Paris 2024

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Best of Tokyo 2020

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